____DESSERT
INGREDIENTS________
The rustic combination of palm sugar, rice flour and coconut formed
the basis of most desserts in Siam. Although these desserts may
have had very limited ingredients, their quality and vibrant
freshness lent them surprising dimensions of flavour, belying their
simplicity. The palm sugar would have been freshly boiled sap
sweet, but slightly bitter from impurities. The rice flour would
have been freshly milled and soaked overnight to remove any excess
starch; during the tropical night, the starch would slightly
ferment. Fresh grated coconut would have been squeezed without the
addition of water, to make an incomparably luscious cream.
PANDANUS LEAVES
These blade-like leaves release their resinous flavour only on
heating. They can be boiled whole - although they are usually
knotted to make them easier to remove in syrups and other
desserts. However, they should only be simmered briefly, for if
stewed they impart an oily, sallow quality. Pandanus leaves are
also used to wrap or package small sweetmeats, and occasionally the
leaves are blended with a little water to colour and perfume
pastries.
SAFFRON
Although not a traditional Thai flavouring, I find saffron adds
depth to syrups and a golden hue to egg desserts that can normally
be obtained only by using duck eggs.
COCONUT
The coconut is indispensable in making Thai desserts, and it is
used in all stagesof development - young, intermediate and old -
and even the husk is employed. The most ancient recipes call for
grated coconut, rather than extracted cream. The best coconut to
use is one that is not too old, where the flesh has developed but
is not as firm or hard as mature coconut. It has a crunchy yet soft
texture, and a rich, sweet taste. However, the best coconut cream
is made from old, 'dry* coconuts; it is essential to peel the brown
skin to obtain a pristinely white cream. Ideally, coconut cream for
desserts should be extracted from coconut alone, without adding
water to dissolve it in, but it takes a massive amount of strength
to wring out the cream this way. Frankly, I have never been able to
achieve this successfully. Instead, aim to extract the cream for
desserts using a minimal amount of water - about 1 cup to 2 cups
grated coconut following the method given on page 148. This will
yield a heavy, thick cream. Then wait for 30 minutes or so to allow
the cream to rise to the top and skim off this even more
concentrated cream. Coconut cream intended for desserts is
immeasurably improved by being prepared with perfumed water, or
smoked and perfumed water. The result is a cream of incomparable
quality and resonance fresh, rich, luscious, slightly resinous
and aromatic. Although it is possible to smoke and perfume the
cream after it has been made, it does not taste the same, being
rawer in taste and not as deep. After the coconut cream has risen
to the top of the bowl and been removed, what remains is coconut
milk, which can be used to poach fruit. If more is needed, simply
mix the squeezed coconut flesh with additional water and extract
again. Although a small amount of cream will be produced, the
result will be mostly milk. When 'cracked' or separated coconut
cream is allowed to cool, the cream separates into the oil and
solids. The oil is used to deep-fry peanuts, shallots, lotus seeds
and bananas. It is a heavy oil which imparts a sharp, rather
peppery flavour, and I like to cut it with some good flavourless
vegetable oil. Undiluted, a little can be smeared in moulds to
prevent desserts sticking to them. The oil lasts indefinitely and,
if strained, can be re-used many times. The residue that remains
after the clear oil is removed from separated cream is coconut
solids or curds, which are used to give body and moisture to some
desserts.
SALT
This is used in many desserts to varying degrees, mostly in
minuscule amounts. Salt draws out the flavour of the other
ingredients and has the effect of countering extremes of taste,
tempering sweetness and reducing the unctuousness of coconut cream.
Sometimes it is used as a strong flavour in itself. Salt can come
as a surprise to the unsuspecting, and is an acquired taste in
desserts; it may initially have been employed as a
preservative.
SUGAR
Often sugar - of whatever kind - to be used in desserts is perfumed
with flowers overnight before use the next day; the elusive perfume
dissipates after a day or so. In Thailand, white sugar is produced
by simmering and clarifying sugar cane with hydrolysed lime water.
This results in a clean, but not always ultra-purified, sugar that
is normally used to make syrups. For those who do not wish to
clarify their own, either castor (superfine) or regular granulated
sugar can be used. Moist, soft, honey-golden granules of Thai palm
sugar are indispensable when making these desserts. Different
grades are used for different desserts as each imparts a distinct
colour and flavour. The best quality comes from Phetchaburi, a
renowned centre of dessert-making. When fresh, palm sugar is
ambrosial, but regrettably it is often adulterated with cheaper
cane sugar. Accomplished Thai dessert chef Tanongsak Yordwai
suggests that one way to invigorate it is to dissolve it in a
little mixed coconut cream and milk, then simmer, stirring
regularly to prevent scorching and promote its re-crystallisation.
I think some young coconut water with a few pandanus leaves would
also be an excellent liquid to use for this purpose. Remember,
however, that sugar treated in this way will be denser and wetter
than just-bought sugar, so reduce any other liquids in the recipe
accordingly. Palm sugar treated like this can also ferment, so
make only as required. Coconut sugar shares many properties with
palm sugar, although the aroma is creamier. Once, many desserts
specified coconut sugar in their ingredients, but this is now
rare.
SUGAR SYRUP
Originally a basic syrup was made by stirring - traditionally with
a few folded pandanus leaves sugar with cold water until it had
dissolved. This takes little time if palm sugar is used, especially
if the hands are employed, but slightly longer with white sugar.
Now, more often sugar syrup is made by simmering white sugar
(rarely palm sugar) in perfumed water. The simmering clarifies the
sugar, giving the resultant syrup an alluring sheen. Once the
sugar has dissolved, the syrup is strained. Sometimes the syrup is
simmered with crushed eggshells and egg whites to further clarify
it and capture any impurities that tend to lurk in the
not-so-refmed Thai white sugar. The syrup is allowed to cool
slightly before the coagulated egg whites and shells are carefully
lifted from the liquid. Then it is strained through several layers
of damp muslin or a few times through a very fine sieve. This
process endows the syrup with a greater lustre and suppleness.
Normally the proportions are 1 part sugar to 1 part water, by
volume or weight, but this proportion, and thus the density of the
syrup, is very much a matter of personal choice. Some prefer
lighter syrups made with 1 part sugar to 2 parts water; others like
their syrup a little denser. Generally it is of little importance
if the syrup is to be used to finish dishes or macerate fruit.
However, when a dessert calls for an item to be poached or simmered
in a syrup, it is imperative that the syrup is of the correct
density. If palm sugar or coconut sugar is dissolved in water to
make a syrup, be careful, for it will scorch and taint if simmered
too long.
MALTOSE
This can be added as a safeguard when making concentrated sugar
syrups and thick palm sugar candies, as its chemical composition
retards crystallisation. It retains its distinctive taste when used
with white sugar, but becomes indistinguishable when combined with
palm sugar. Maltose also softens caramels and candies, helping them
to remain pliable once cool.