I prefer MF over AF as i focus
faster with the same sharpness this way. AF is also noisy and may
chase away animals if i am taking them.
Belief it or not reflexes
and awareness has very much to do with photography. There are
people who can do well on focusing manually from their sharp
eyesight. maybe you can show us some photos of actions shots or
motion shots that you can do with manual focus? From the photos
samples above, even if you shoot at f/1.8 no one can tell if they
are blurred or not with the cropped res over the
internet. As for animals you have to understand them. when they are
not approachable, you have to keep a distance and in such cases
photographers will have to rely on telephoto lenses. at a far
distance, even the loudess lenses like the tmrons noise will not be
an issue unless the environment is very quitet like in the wild. So
noises problem from focusing the root of the problem is the lenses
you use.
ISO = sensitivity to light.
lower ISO means less noise but less light is being received by the
sensor, resulting in a darker picture. Compensated by longer
shutter speed.
Your using an entry level cam so you will have no experience
of what the mid range cams with moderately good ISO
performance can do. Outdoors most people will shoot at ISO 100
or 200. Even so your photo might appear 'noiseless' but it
will lack the dynamic punch factor. If you want a clean image. try
using mid range cams if you can afforad. Push up the iso even at
outdoors to 300-400 and not only will the images be 'noiseless',
they will be exceptionally bright and dynamic!
Longer shutter speed= more
colors enter the lens, resulting in sharper and finer pictures but
may cause the picture to be too bright. If there are movements in
the picture such as water flowing down the fountain, a long shutter
speed will cause the camera to record the movement image details of
the moving object, resulting in a trail of what the object looks
like.
Its all about light. Color
reception depends on the RGB sensors and the lenses grade and
quality. So your explanation on longer shutter meas more colors
will really need more scientific proofs. All the talk of long
shutter is okay but remember to bring a tripod if you want special
trailing effects when you drag your shutter.
higher aperture= sharpness and details are focused on a wider
view. Larger apertures are used when you want to focus on many
things on the shot. Lower apertures are used to blur out the
background or other objects so that the main focus in the picture
is more clear.
This one is soothing to the ears? But when you were to ever
shoot close up, macro down to 1:1 beyond, no one will use a big
aperture. People can go down to apertures as small as F/32 or
beyond. Diffraction will happen then, but can be corrected with
moderate sharpening in post processing.
Exposure compensation= increasing or decreasing the overall
brightness of the picture. Doesnt increase brightness enough to
compensate for dark environments. Usually used to touch up.
When you compensate, the camera actually still work on the
shutter speed or aperture values in cam calculations when you are
in Av, Tv mode. so i wont bother about this gimmick
actually.
Color tone= created by adding grey. More color tone means adding
more grey to the picture and vice versa. Tone gives the picture a
more relaxed feel to it.
Dont know but photo outputs reviews are very
subjective.
Color saturation= intensity of the color. pale colors vs pure
colors or weak colors vs strong colors. Usually used on pictures
with moderate colors so that you can spice the picture up.
Dont know but photo outputs reviews are very
subjective.
Raw images= Every detail of the picture is recorded as when
taken so that editing through a software may be done later. cameras
usually set "L" by default which is scaled down from the RAW image
to save storage space while retaining acceptable quality.
Learn when to shoot raw and when to shoot jpeg.
Learn to tell from your eye through the viewfinder if the
image will be a keeper or a thrash. In this way you wont have to go
home eagerly thinking you will have great images only to find that
you have to delete half or more images afterwards because they dont
turn out so good as expected.
I always use Tv mode as I take scenic pictures most of the time
which requires the same Aperture. ISO and shutter speed then vary
depending on movements and environment brightness. Using self timer
of 2 seconds also reduces the little camera shake from pressing the
shutter button.
