Text and images by Sheere
Ng @ Makansutra
Hua
Yu Wee, the last remaining seafood restaurant at Upper East Coast
Road
If you are born
before the 70s, you would most likely remember Upper East Coast
Road as the go to place for seafood. Before the land reclamation
project completed in 1970, the seafood restaurants along that
particular road actually fronts the shore. Eat seafood, admire the
sunset, balmy evening and listen to the sea as it laps the shore –
ahhh, what a great life.
But since 1977,
the government had announced plans to relocate the restaurants.
Those that were running their businesses on temporary planning
permissions, such as Palm Beach (said to be the birth place of
chilli crab), Red House and Kheng Luck, were the first to be
affected. But it was not until 1985 that they were moved to East
Coast Park seafood row, partly fueled by residents’ complaint of
illegal parking by patrons along that old stretch.
Today, all have
disappeared except for one – Hua Yu Wee. (Ms Poh, the restaurant’s
supervisor says she’s not clear why they didn’t have to move,
although old newspaper reported that those who held permanent
permission license could stay put.) More than 50 years on, the big
white stilted mansion that house the restaurant at its main hall
looks decrepit yet charming. Coupled with the backyard dining (a
shelter was built over it some years ago, diluting its old charm,
unfortunately), Hua Yu Wee is refreshingly different from the
modern restaurants.
At
the backyard of the bungalow
A retro building
facade isn’t all it has. The restaurant also possesses a capable
head chef, Mr Teo Ah Chye, who has been with them for more than 20
years. He may not have an expansive range of innovative dishes to
offer, as how many newer establishments are wont to by habit, but
he scores high marks for the rendition of classic dishes.
So excuse the
waitress if she insists that both the chilli and pepper crab are
equally good. Against our inclinations, we heeded her advice and
ordered both. They did not disappoint. The former left a tingling
sensation on your tongue yet sweet enough to encourage the next
bite. The peppery version on other hand, had an almost choking
aroma but the potentially overpowering flavour was brilliantly
tamed with caramelised onions. Both were winners.
Chilli
crab
Black
Pepper Crab
Just as enjoyable
was the clams hor fun. Its brilliance lay in the crispy deep-fried
kway teow pieces sprinkled atop the usual wok fried kway teow,
presenting two contrasting textures in one dish accented with
clams.
Clams
Hor Fun
Those who come to
this restaurant must never miss their beef hotpot, which has a rare
and appealing edge – a spicy fuyu sauce (a reflection of the
owner’s Hainanese heritage) that complements the beef to a T.
However, the meat and stock (the traditional, light and humble
type), we must admit, is no big shake.
Spicy
Fuyu Sauce
Customers are
mostly families and many of them are expats who stay in the area.
Besides the unique ambience, they are also attracted by the fact
that Hua Yu Wee does not charge corkage fee. On a regular Tuesday
evening, at least three tables brought their own wine to accompany
their seafood dinner. Service charge is omitted from the bill too.
Ms Poh explains that as they never had this practice, it’s
impossible to implement a new policy without having the regulars
complaining. Hail to the old restaurants and their old ways!
For those of you
wondering about the life expectancy of this restaurant, this is
what Ms Poh says: “I’m not too worried because we signed a contract
with the landowner.”
Did not know such a seafood restaurant exists!
Looks so nostalgic .......
Has anyone tried their food? Nice?