The growing number of corporate-run air-conditioned food
courts that sell higher quality food may portend the start of a
more lavish, materialistic lifestyle.
The deepening trend of price increases in Singapore appears to
be laying siege to the remaining bastion of cheap eating – the
small food stall.
I am referring to the thousands of small eating places in
neighbourhood coffee shops and hawker centres that traditionally
provide cheap meals for the masses.
It is an institution that makes life in one of the most
expensive cities in the world more livable.
Mostly run by families or individuals, these stalls dish out,
for only a few dollars, some of the most exotic Asian dishes, with
diversity unmatched in many other countries.
Even as the cost of living soars, the Singaporean’s daily meal
remains within reach of most workers and students – thanks to these
hawkers and a system.
For as little as S$3-S$5 (RM7-RM12) a dish, the average
Singaporean can have a simple meal quickly every day – and at
prices less than in most advanced Western cities.
Recently, a spate of reports indicated that this last bastion of
cheap food is under siege by forces trying to push prices
higher.
So far, the wall has largely stood firm – and Singaporeans can
still have a meal for S$5 or S$6 (RM14) – but parts of it may have
been breached.
The first threat is the growing number of corporate-run
air-conditioned food courts that sell higher quality food at
S$7-$10, (RM17-RM24) and eating into the hawkers’ profits.
These are pulling away professionals and white-collar workers so
successfully that a few vendors are tempted to be a little too
ambitious – selling food at restaurant prices.
A great deal of anger recently arose following reports that one
stall was charging S$17 (RM40) for a bowl of laksa that
normally costs S$3.
In exuberant mood, some other stalls have joined in – selling
nasi padang at S$13 (RM31) and prawn noodle at S$11
(RM26), all unheard of until now.
The practice is being pushed in a few cases into the heartland
hawker centres.
A Bedok stall reportedly charges S$6.60 (RM15.60) for a packet
of nasi lemak, something that Bangladeshi workers
perfunctorily pick up for S$1-S$1.20 (RM2.40-RM2.60) to bring to
the worksite.
“I hope this is not trend-setting,” exclaimed a nurse, who
almost has all her meals out.
“The day our hawkers start charging S$10 (RM24) for chicken
rice, I’m done for!”
So far, not too many are following suit.
Most are level-headedly holding to their charges for fear of
losing customers.
In perspective, most suburban food-stalls and coffeeshops are
still selling chicken rice or laksa for S$3, and a cup of
coffee for S$1.
This battle to draw the line is being watched with concern by
Singaporeans.
The food stalls have been a government triumph from many years
ago, started to replace an army of street vendors selling food
house to house.
That Singapore could provide a worker’s meal for S$5 is really a
bit of a wonder – considering the country imports 90% of its food
needs.
But with the government’s preoccupation of maximising gross
domestic product (GDP) growth, few are prepared to predict the
future direction of the hawker stall and cheap meals.
At last count, some 13,500 licences had been granted to run
shop-stalls (at privately-owned coffeeshops) and a further 14,100
given out to food stalls at 30 government-operated food
centres.
A general fear is that, given the govt’s corporate-mindedness,
it may one day transfer the whole food business to the private
sector, and that could spell an end to the era of the S$3-S$5
meal.
One major threat is imported inflation. In recent weeks, a cup
of coffee had risen by 10 to 20 cents, thanks to the global price
hikes of sugar and coffee as well as oil.
Vendors, however, complain their woes are also largely caused by
high rentals due to government policies.
Take my estate, where I have lived for 26 years.
In six months’ time, it will lose the third of its five
coffeeshops, to make way for more profitable ventures.
Two others had closed their doors in as many years, one replaced
by a bank and the other by a mini-mart, both of which had offered
the owners higher rentals.
There has been little survey, and so it is not known how many of
the 2,000 coffee shops in the republic have shared – or will share
– this fate. In the corporate world, few people see these places as
an important way of Singapore life.
To me, the coffeeshop is a Singapore institution for social
bonding of residents – especially for retirees to meet and chat
without costing an arm and a leg.
I don’t think it will ever become extinct, but what will
disappear will be the simple creatures that offer cheap food for
people with a modest income.
Many of these smaller food stalls, which have helped keep costs
down for residents, are being ousted by bigger, stronger
competitors who are not too shy about raising prices.
It is not just the slow passing of an era but the start of
another – of a more lavish, materialistic lifestyle that has
fuelled America’s financial woes.
A financially well-off friend told me this could not be avoided
because higher prices are an indication of progress. But, I am not
sure many Singaporeans judge things this way – definitely not for
their daily meals, anyway.
.
by Seah Chiang Nee
Source: The Star Online
http://www.temasekreview.com/2011/01/10/cheap-meals-under-threat/
