repost !
Originally posted by NYC_MiCra:
Hi,
Fyi and also commences in BLUE.
[b]1. What are the main
lubrication problems in passenger car
engines?.
Most Lubrication problems for passenger car engines fall primarily
into the following areas:
Low-temperature or light-duty operation. This is when a car makes
a lot of short trips that never allow the engine to reach its
optimum operating temperature. Partially burned fuel byproducts can
result in sludge deposits and excessive rust.
High-temperature oxidation. Engine operating temperatures today
are extremely high while the amount of oil in the sump is small, as
little as four quarts. This severe heat stress on the oil can
accelerate oil oxidation, resulting in oil thickening, loss of
lubricating properties, varnish and piston deposits.
Passenger car engines deliver high horsepower in relation to the
size and weight of engine components. This places great stress on
engine parts such as the valvetrain, which strains to provide the
high cam lift and spring loads required for efficiency and high
engine speeds.
The use of air-pollution control devices such as positive
crankcase ventilation and exhaust gas recirculation can increase
the heat stress on an oil and increase the amount of contaminants
in the oil.
2. How can I be sure I'm getting high-quality oil?
Ok, Throughout the world there are many differences in the oils. In
general, name brand oil meets or exceeds automobile manufacturer
specifications, industry standards and governmental regulations.
Users should use the type of oil recommended in their vehicle
handbook/owners manual or an oil that claims to be approved by the
manufacturer of their vehicle. After this, owners may look to an
industry standard, such as from JASO, ACEA or API, for guidance.
The licenses ILSAC Certification Mark or "starburst symbol" to be
placed on the front of oil bottles, certifying that those oils are
the appropriate oil for gasoline-powered passenger cars, light
trucks, minivans and SUVs.
(After 10k )
Fuel economy savings for Fully Synthetic
0W 30 Enhances engine performance and power
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit
build-up
5W 40 Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in
freezing temperatures
Preference choices:
Shell Hylix (5 - 40 ) or Mobil One (0 -30) (USA version, can find
at Care4)
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly
( Optional after 5k onwards ) is better than mineral oil
Semi- Synthetic
5W- 30 Better protection
10W- 40 Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting
out
15W- 40 Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so
often
Mineral oil ( TC recommend, becos is cheap free service 1, 5, 10 k
)
10W 40 Basic protection for a variety of engines
15W 40 Oil needs to be changed more often
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel
consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt
and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a
micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around
harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that
separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will
always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places
in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty
the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with
it.
Tyres PSI.
Are you running on stock rims 14 or 15 inch.
Some tips.
Normal stock tyres Front (220 or 230)
Rear (210 or 220)
A) Sedom carry load ( F 220- R 210 )
B) Always ferry and carry load ( F 230 - R 220
)
For more question send me a PM or email: [email protected]
[/b]
