Sangkhla Buri, a cosy
district in Kanchanaburi province, never fails to mesmerise
visitors. Bordering Burma, its town area is a colourful mix of
ethnic cultures _ Thai, Mon, Karen and Burmese.
The earliest settlers in Sangkhla
Buri are believed to be Mons. Making my second trip there in close
to a decade, I was eager to observe the changes it had undergone in
that time. Back then it offered very little in terms of
accommodation to the few tourists who took the trouble to venture
to the sleepy little town traversing winding roads up mountain
slopes. Tourism was still in its infancy but Sangkhla Buri's rich
ethnic diversity, where each group held fast to its tradition and
culture, made it an attractive proposition even then, inviting
travellers to come and explore the district on their
own.
This time, the improved state of
roads and general infrastructure leading to the town area meant
that tourism has since made great strides but without sacrificing
its rustic appeal. Numerous types of tourist accommodations have
sprung up throughout town. Locals have become business savvy, with
rows of souvenir shops lining main tourist spots such as the
landmark 850-metre-long wooden bridge, also called Saphan Mon, the
link for villagers to Sangkhla Buri town. Close by, clusters of
guesthouses built as floating rafts proved an eyesore.
The wooden bridge provides a
stunning view of Khao Laem reservoir. A student doubling as tour
guide said during rainy season the level of water flowing under the
bridge rises, sometimes almost touching the horizontal beams, but
at other times of the year most of the bridge is in view. Given its
poor state, motorcycles are not allowed on the bridge, although you
can ride bicycles.
Tourism's ugly side is beginning
to surface in the town area, but away from it you can still spot
communities that welcome visitors with a genuine smile. One such
village is Fang Mon that can be reached by boat or a walk across
the wooden bridge.
One of the most photographed
landmarks in Sangkhla Buri, this wooden bridge is a place to catch
the sunrise, the surrounding landscape and laid back lifestyle of
the locals. However, the cheap wooden guesthouses under the bridge
were an eye sore to what once was a picture perfect
setting.
Sangkhla Buri's other landmark is
Wat Wang Wiwekaram and its highly revered abbot Luang Pho Uttama.
The temple's architecture is a mix of Thai, Indian and Mon
influence. Sometimes it is also called Wat Mon because most of the
monks and villagers in the area are of Mon origin. It has a
striking white marble Buddha image built in Mon style and murals
depicting various stages of Buddha's life. The top of its stupa
contains Buddha's relics from Sri Lanka.
The former Wang Wiwekaram temple,
also known as Muang Badan, is another attraction. Submerged as a
result of building of the Vajiralongkorn Dam in 1979, it is only on
view during the dry season when water level in the reservoir,
spawned by the dam's building, has receded to a sufficient level.
Visitors can take boats from the town area to the
temple.
Last but not least, is the Three
Pagodas Pass. The miniature pagodas are reminders of the route
favoured by Burmese soldiers invading Thailand during the Ayutthaya
period (1350-1767). It is also the site of a border market selling
everything from wooden handicrafts to herbal balm from
Burma.