Will try to answer your queries.
1 - If possible, DO NOT take the loan scheme with cash rebates. It
is all factored in to your loan. In most cases, you end up paying
more.
2- Bank loan below your loan amount, some items in car only can get
when you top up, basically them trying to get you to pay more for
items that actually come with the car anyway. Breaking promises
made to you is normal is the above cases. Try to get everything in
black and white.
3- OMV is basically the value of your car as/when they buy from the
factory. Different fittings/options as well as the exchange rate of
the currencies will play a part in your OMV level. This will also
be ultimately where your scrap value be calculated from (If I am
not wrong, not sure, but think not far from this).
4- This is the price that the dealer gets you to sign for in order
for them to get the COE at the first bid. This is normally only
worth it if the car's price has dropped drastically from super low
COE price, or if you want your car in the next 5 minutes.
5- Depending on how you see this really. But IMHO not important.
They will tell you that you will need to go back to their
affiliated workshops to keep your warranty intact. And this labour
free is bull. It will just be you paying much higher for
parts.
6- Not familiar with PI workings. But you are buying a Honda, I
would think that many workshops will be able to ably service your
car. And stockists would be able to provide you with original parts
at slightly lower costs.
7- The fee you pay LTA for them to put your car into the permitted
list.
8- Most will be comprehensive I think, with (I think) AIG being the
easiest to claim from, but also the most expensive. Sit down with
your dealer to find out what the insurance they are getting for you
would cover.
9- If they have ex(isting) stock, you can get your car a week from
a successful COE bidding. If not, then depending on the factory,
1-6 months. Should be in that range, unless your buying a super
exclusive car like a Koenigsegg or AMG SLR 722, in which case
waiting times might stretch to more than a year.
10- Just go to any of the bigger PIs and you should be fine. They
may not always be the cheapest, but I think its worth it.
Especially if you hold warranty dearly.
Bring along someone with car buying experience. Ask the SE to write
everything that is promised to you in black and white, on the sales
agreement. Buy the car only if your comfortable with all the terms
and conditions. If not, walk away, to the next big dealer.
Above is my POV only. Might not be zhun, but it is probably there
or thereabouts. Have fun shopping.
