Genius in a bottle

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extracted from SIN

Want to know what's really in your jar of very expensive marine wotsit? Dr Ang Por, consultant dermatologist of National Skin Centre, says some of the most popular active ingredients like retinoids and hydroxyl stimulate new collagen synthesis in the middle skin layer. Others like antioxidants help remove harmful free radicals, while copper peptides and pentapeptides penetrate deeper to increase collagen and protein synthesis. Let's take a look at what's what in the world of hi-tech face repair and how they work.

'Ingredients are stable for an average of two years. And they take about 2 months of religious usage to see result!"

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Age buster : retinoids

FORMS
Retinol, Retinaldehyde. Retinyl Ester. They are derivatives of Vitamin A.

WHAT THEY DO
Improve the complexion by refining skin texture and smoothing out lines. Says Dr Ang, "The gold standard of the retinols is retinoic acid or tretinoin (Retin A, Retacnyl, Stieva A) which has been scientifically proven to be effective.

"Retinol exfoliates dead skin cells, spreads out uneven pigmentation. The idea is that this will stimulate collagen production and help improve the appearance of wrinkles and pores. Having said that, retinoids do not lighten complexion as much as bleaching agents do."

L'Oreal Revitalift (SPF 1 Cool Anti- wrinkle + Firming Cream, $21.75, from Sasa.

CP White Special Peeling White, $18, from Sasa.

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Skin renewer: hydroxyl acids

FORMS
AHA(Alpha Hydorxy Acid),

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid),

PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid)

WHAT THEY DO
Exfoliate and accelerate skin turnover, helps collagen formation. PHA, with its large molecules, penetrates skin more slowly with less irritation. Fat-soluble BHA is good for oily, acne-prone skin. "However, they can't reduce redness completely." Adds Dr Ang.Evans AHA 10 Revitalizing Concentrate, $19.90, from Guardian Pharmacy.

Avene Cleanance K with AHA + BHA, $19.90, from Sasa.

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Healer: Peptides

FORMS Synthetic chemicals eg peptides

WHAT THEY DO "copper peptides promote wound healing while pentapeptides stimulate collagen production," says Dr Ang. "Copper Peptides, in particular, help improve firmness and elasticity and reduce skin scarring. But Peptides, in general, can't get rid of deep-set wrinkles."

Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum, $34.80, from Sasa

Prescriptives Skin Renewal Cream, $106 from Robinson Centrepoint.

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Anti-inflammatories: botanicals

FORMS
Green tea, aloe vera, allantoin

WHAT THEY DO
Help reduce ultraviolet-induced inflammation such as redness, swelling and pain. Allantoin for eg is derived from comfrey root which promotes skin healing and has a skin softening effect. Green tea helps to repair and strengthen damaged skin. "Good for sensitive skins but cannot help much with scars," says Dr Ang.

Kiara Detoxinating Mask, $78, from Sasa.

Ju Ju Green Tea Wash Powder, $13.90, from Sasa.

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Damage insurance: antioxidants

FORMS
Grape seed extract, green tea, soy pycnogenol, (pine bark extract), pomegranate extract, lycopene

WHAT THEY DO
Neutralise free radicals and protect skin from environmental damage, thus delaying the ageing process. "Antioxidants do have anti-inflammatory properties that can help to calm the skin. But they can't do much for deep wrinkles," says Dr Ang.

Korres Wild Rose 24-hour Moisturiser (SPF 6), $45, from Guardian Pharmacy.

Korres Pomegranate Balancing Moisturiser (SPF 6), $39 from Guardian Pharmacy.