Bhutan: A Buddhist
Development Model Worth Emulating
Dr Omalpe Sobitha
Mahathera 19 July 2017 IDN InDepthNews
ENBILIPITIYA, Sri Lanka (IDN) – There will be
many answers to the question: which is the country where the
happiest people live? In response many famous, developed nations
will come to mind, but you will be surprised that the name of a
little-known country could be the right answer to this question. It
is Bhutan, the wonderful and amazing country that beats all others
on the happiness index.
Bhutan has been so identified following a
worldwide survey on Gross National Happiness (GNH) – not Gross
National Product (GDP). Its capital is Thimpu, which reminds us of
the peace talks held there between the Sri Lanka Government and
Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) separatists in
1985.
Recently I found the opportunity to fulfil a
long-cherished hope of finding out more about this wondrous
country, which recalls the island of Uthurukuru mentioned in
Buddhist literature. The experiences I had in Bhutan proved that my
visit there was truly my good fortune.
Bhutan, with a population of 750,000 people,
is located more than 7,000 metres above sea level in the Himalayan
region, near the world’s highest point, Mount Everest. The country
has a cold climate (-18 to -7 °C) and the sky above Bhutan is
always filled with white clouds rising above the mountain peaks
surrounding the country. Human settlements are located some
distance away from each other.
A foreign tourist visiting in the country
practically finds himself/herself on a Buddhist pilgrimage because
all the important places one sees are Buddhist temples and
monasteries. Tourists are drawn towards the many big and small
temples which have been built since the arrival of Vajrayana
Buddhism in the 15th century, and most of which stand on hilltops
surrounded by thick jungle.
Visitors are overjoyed by the wonders of the
places when listening to the tour guide. They are visited by
Buddhists to engage in worshipping the Buddha according to their
traditions and also by non-Buddhists who go there to enjoy a calm
and relaxed experience, respecting the sanctity of the
temples.
Tourists take their own time in visiting the
places, free of the distractions that can be found in Sri Lanka,
for example, where all types of unscrupulous individuals attempt to
cheat them by selling different items or becoming self-appointed
tour guides to extort money from them.
Although there are various items on sale at
shops near the places visited by tourists in Bhutan no one tries to
force items on tourists. They are allowed to pick and chose
whatever they wish and prices are fixed so there is no bargaining,
unlike in Sri Lanka where vendors seek to hoodwink visitors by
selling items at a price higher than at which they are sold to
locals.
The restless behaviour of some Sri Lankan
‘bhikkus’ and lay persons whenever a group of local or foreign
pilgrims visit a place of worship has become a joke. The reason is
that all of them want to exploit visitors and line their
pockets.
There is no selling of tickets or charging of
any fee to visit any place of worship in Bhutan. Nor are beggars or
children running behind visitors and pestering them for money or
food to be seen. If someone decides on their own account to give
the children something, they are very shy to accept but eventually
do so and thank you in English.
It is most unfortunate that begging has become
a ‘tradition’ in places of Buddhist worship in Sri Lanka. Needless
to say it tarnishes the image of Buddhism in the eyes of
foreigners.
There are both bhikkus (monks) and bhikkunis
(nuns) in Bhutan – 30,000 bhikkus and 18,000 bhikkunis. Becoming a
bhikku or bhikkuni is voluntary and temporary ordination is very
popular in Bhutan. Entering the Order of the Sangha, even for a
short period in life, is considered essential. Children are trained
to adapt themselves to life in hermitages from the age of
seven.
The expression “surprising but true” comes to
the mind a thousand times when touring Bhutan. It is surprising,
for example, that heaps of garbage are nowhere to be seen, neither
in villages nor towns. There are no bags of rubbish by the roadside
or hanging from lamp posts. Garbage bins are kept in specified
places but are not overfilled making the rubbish visible from the
outside.
However, it is in moral conduct and an ethical
way of living that the Bhutanese are far above all other
societies.
The government restricted cigarette smoking on
and off until 2015 when a total ban was imposed on tobacco
production and the manufacture and smoking of cigarettes.
Foreigners are allowed to bring a limited number of cigarettes
(200) with them and special places are allocated for them in hotels
for smoking.
Strict laws are also enforced on the
consumption of alcohol. No alcohol imports are allowed, the sale of
alcohol is banned in the vicinity of temples, schools, hospitals,
universities and community centres, and all alcohol shops are
closed every Tuesday.
Cattle are a treasure for the Bhutanese who
make use of them in a very meaningful way. In addition to being a
source for the production of milk, ghee, cheese and butter, cattle
are used for agricultural purposes in the rural areas.
It is an example to us in Sri Lanka that, in
accordance with the Brahmana Dhamma Sutra of the Majjima Nikaya,
the Bhutanese show due consideration for the welfare of cattle
which help the people in their sustenance and livelihood. Cattle
slaughter has been banned throughout Bhutan and it is a common
sight to see cattle roaming freely on the streets.
For those addicted to the consumption of meat,
it is imported, but during the first and fourth month of every
year, meat consumption is completely banned, because these two
months are considered religiously important based on the lunar
calendar in Bhutanese culture. This mercy shown to animals reminds
us of a similar law introduced by Sinhala King Amandagamini (67-79
AD).
Something else that amazes foreign tourists is
that no poor huts and shanties are to be seen anywhere when passing
small villages on the way to main towns like Paro, Punakha, Thronsa
and Mongar. located hundreds of kilometres away from the capital
Thimpu. And there are no helpless and unfortunate persons on
pavements or at bus stops anywhere in the country.
Every citizen has a permanent house built
according to state-approved plans, which are drafted according to
national cultural standards and artistic designs. The result is
that while all houses almost look alike, they might be even
mistaken for temples because of their beautiful designs and
carvings.
The three most important factors that bind the
Bhutanese and contribute to their unity and harmonious living are
king, country and religion. It is compulsory to display pictures of
the king and the royal family prominently in every house,
government and private establishment, hotel, hostel and
temple.
The government of Bhutan is not interested in
attracting foreign tourists at any cost. Hence, when applying for a
visa, would-be tourists have to comply with a number of rules and
regulations designed to prevent troublemakers and dubious
characters from entering the country and corrupting the people of
Bhutan. In fact, up to 1974, the only foreigners allowed to enter
the country were those invited for specific purposes; others were
allowed only after 1974.
Bhutan communicates with the outside world via
two government-owned airline companies; no other airlines are
allowed into the country.
No foreign tourist or groups of tourists are
allowed to roam freely, and their attire and behaviour should not
violate the country’s cultural norms. As a result, every tourist
should register with a government-approved company and should
travel with an authorised tour guide. A special examination is held
for tour guides who should always be dressed in national costume
and observe national and institutional customs when they are
guiding tourists.
The rulers of Bhutan are teaching us Sri
Lankans a far-sighted lesson by giving priority to protecting
society’s moral standards and its physical and mental health rather
than earning foreign exchange through tourism.
When thinking about Bhutan we are compelled to
question the widely accepted criteria of development. Economists
and social scientists – as well as politicians and the majority of
us – consider that acquiring more and more physical resources and
increasing personal incomes is the road to happiness.
Consequently we are focused solely on reaching
economic targets, having entered a dream world via theories based
on per capita income and foreign-exchange reserves. We are engaged
in a relentless, tiring rat race towards so-called progress,
symbolised by skyscrapers, highways, high speed trains, luxury
vehicles, palace-like buildings, and so on.
Mesmerised by this mirage, we have become so
selfish and ruthless that we are ignoring not only ethical living
and moral standards but also obligations towards our parents, as
demonstrated by what is happening in our country and the rest of
the world.
The people of Bhutan are the living example on
this earth that happiness alone is wealth as taught by the Buddha.
The time has now come for us to realise that the true criterion of
a happy country is where the people, without being trapped in
unlimited desires, have fulfilled their basic needs and lead
relaxed and healthy lives both physically and mentally, spreading
goodwill among everyone. Bhutan has already set this powerful
example for the world.
It is not political ideology but the Buddha’s
incomparable teaching which has brought about this unique state of
happiness in Bhutan.