Mt. Atago,
Japan --
My research work on local ecology and folk spirituality often
brings me into the grounds of small village Buddhist temples, many
of which are surrounded by dense sacred groves.
At this time of
year, the temple grounds may be littered with strange little woody
structures, about two to three centimeters in diameter and shaped
like an eight-pointed star. Alongside the woody fruits are
scattered hundreds of bright shiny tannish-brown seeds, a little
less than a centimeter in length.
These are the
fruits and seeds of a small evergreen tree called a star anise.
Several dozen species of star anise, all placed in the genus
Illicium, are known worldwide, mostly from Asia but also from North
and Central America. The most famous of these is the Chinese star
anise (I. verum), the dried fruits of which are widely used as a
spice and herbal medicine.
Although the
star anise trees are not related to actual anise, they contain
similar flavonoids and produce the same licorice-like taste and
smell. In Asia the Chinese star anise, called to-shikimi in
Japanese, is used to spice up a great variety of dishes. In Europe
as well, this star anise is employed to flavor liquors such as
French absinthe and pastis, Italian sambuca and Greek
Ouzo.
Unfortunately,
the species found at Japanese temples, called the Japanese star
anise or shikimi (I. anisatum), contains deadly toxins that can
cause severe inflammation of the kidneys and digestive organs. In
Japan the fruits of this species are listed under the Poisonous and
Deleterious Substances Control Law (Dokubutsu Oyobi Gekibutsu
Torishimari Ho).
In America, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has issued a
warning against drinking star anise tea, which is sold as a health
tonic and also thought to prevent abdominal cramps in infants.
These teas are made from Chinese star anise, but some may contain
small amounts of Japanese star anise as well, and can cause severe
vomiting and even seizures.
Although highly
toxic, the shikimi is considered a sacred plant in folk Buddhism.
The first time I encountered one of these shrubs was several
decades ago, on a research trip into the far north. I was staying
in a Japanese-style inn in a small mountain village. There had
recently been a death in the family, and the people were holding a
simple funeral ceremony. The deceased, an elderly man, had been
laid out in a coffin in an inner room, and the mourners were filing
in to offer sticks of incense. Surrounding the body were cut
branches of a very fragrant shrub that I was later informed was
shikimi. The branches, I was told, helped to purify the air and
keep down the odors of decay.
Much later I
again encountered the shikimi on a hiking trip up Mt. Atago, a
924-meter-high mountain that guards the northwest wall of the Kyoto
Basin. The deity inhabiting this mountain, Atago Gongen, is an
amalgamation of the Buddhist avatar Shogun-Jizo, once popular among
medieval period samurai warriors; and the Shinto fire kami
Kagutsuchi, still renown throughout the land for his ability to
keep Japan’s wooden dwellings safe from fires. Atago Gongen is said
to appear in the form of a long-nosed winged creature known as a
tengu, and is served by wild boar familiars. In popular
representations he is usually depicted as a helmeted Buddhist saint
riding a horse.
Today, there is
a Shinto shrine, Atago Jinja, near the top of the mountain.
Normally, trees in the Tea Family, sakaki (Cleyera japonica) or
hi-sakaki (Eurya japonica) are presented as offerings to the kami
at Shinto shrines. At this shrine, however, branches of shikimi are
offered instead. This situation may reflect the history of the
shrine, which until the late 19th century was a Buddhist temple. In
the past, women from nearby villages would hike up to the shrine
each day, carrying bundles of shikimi sprigs to sell to the
pilgrims and visitors. Today the sprigs can be purchased at the
shrine office.
Shikimi is also
used to make traditional incense, and for carving Buddhist images.
The leaves are so fragrant that you can easily identify a shrub
with your eyes closed. The flowers, which in the Kanto Region bloom
in mid-April, are two to three centimeters in diameter, and range
in color from fairly dense yellow to white with a slight yellow
tint. Each arm of the woody eight-armed star contains a single
seed.
Shikimi are native to Japan from the north Kanto region southward,
and are also distributed on Taiwan and the Chinese mainland. They
prefer shade to strong sun, and in Japan are often found growing in
mountainside forests under momi fir trees (Abies firma). Shikimi
are also widely planted at Buddhist temples and graveyards,
including the large public cemeteries in big cities. Dried Chinese
star anise fruits are widely available in Japanese supermarkets,
where they are usually sold under the product name
hakkaku.