Written by Veterinarian, Dr. Christianne
Schelling
If you are considering declawing your cat, please read this. It
will only take a moment, and it will give you valuable information
to help you in your decision.
First, you should know that declawing is pretty much an American
thing, it's something people do for their own convenience without
realizing what actually happens to their beloved cat. In England
declawing is termed "inhumane" and "unnecessary mutilation." I
agree. In many European countries it is illegal. I applaud their
attitude.
Before you make the decision to declaw your cat, there are some
important facts you should know. Declawing is not like a manicure.
It is serious surgery. Your cat's claw is not a toenail.
It is actually closely adhered to the bone. So closely adhered that
to remove the claw, the last bone of your the cat's claw has to be
removed. Declawing is actually an amputation of the last joint of
your cat's "toes". When you envision that, it becomes clear why
declawing is not a humane act. It is a painful surgery, with a
painful recovery period. And remember that during the time of
recuperation from the surgery your cat would still have to use its
feet to walk, jump, and scratch in its litter box regardless of the
pain it is experiencing. Wheelchairs and bedpans are not an option
for a cat.
No cat lover would doubt that cats--whose senses are much keener
than ours--suffer pain. They may, however, hide it better. Not only
are they proud, they instinctively know that they are at risk when
in a weakened position, and by nature will attempt to hide it. But
make no mistake. This is not a surgery to be taken lightly.
Your cat's body is perfectly designed to give it the grace,
agility and beauty that is unique to felines. Its claws are an
important part of this design. Amputating the important part of
their anatomy that contains the claws drastically alters the
conformation of their feet. The cat is also deprived of its primary
means of defense, leaving it prey to predators if it ever escapes
to the outdoors.
I have also had people tell me that their cat's personality
changed after being declawed. Although, the medical community does
not recognize this as potential side effect.
Okay, so now you realize that declawing is too drastic a
solution, but you're still concerned about keeping your household
furnishings intact. Is there an acceptable solution? Happily, the
answer is yes. A big, joyful, humane YES! Actually there are
several. The following website "Cat
Scratching Solutions" provides many solutions as well as and
insight into the psychology of why cats scratch. You can teach your
cat to use a scratching post (sisal
posts are by far the best). You can trim the front claws.
You can also employ aversion methods. One of the best solutions
I've found is Soft Paws®.
Soft Paws are lightweight vinyl nail caps that you glue on the
cat's front claws. They're great for households with small children
and are extremely useful for people who are away from home all day
and can't exercise the watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use
a scratching post. Soft Paws® are easy to apply and last about four
to six weeks. They come in clear or colors--which are really fun.
Now that's a kitty manicure! The colored caps look spiffy
on Tabby or Tom and have the added advantage of being more visible
when one finally comes off. Then you simply replace it. You can
find Soft Paws® on the web or call 1-800-989-2542.
You need to remember, though, that the caps and nail trimming
should only be used on indoor cats who will not be vunerable to the
dangers of the outdoors.
For a list of countries in which declawing is either illegal, or
considered extremely inhumane and only performed only under extreme
circumstances, or for medical reasons, click here.
Not yet convinced? Click
Here for "The Truth about Declawing - Technical Facts."
Questions or Comments? Like to add to this website? Please feel
free to e-mail me.
Dr. Christianne Schelling
Copyright 1998 - 2009 All Rights
Reserved
Your Sofa and your nerves are
in tatters. You're scolding your cat, knowing all the while that
it's futile. This is not a cocker spaniel you're dealing with. This
is one of nature's most pragmatic and self sufficient creatures.
Worse, you're well aware that your cat considers your behavior
abberant. She looks at you as if you've gone slightly mad. "Why the
Fuss?" she seems to say. "What are you raving about? I'm simply
doing my thing--what's with you?
You're at an impasse. What to
do?
Above all, don't
declaw.
Please, take that as a given.
Declawing is not an acceptable option for the beautiful, loving
animal that depends on you. The reasons to avoid declawing are
compelling, for you as well as for your cat.
Declawing is literally maiming
a cat, a mistake that can lead to physical, emotional and
behavioral complications. It is erroneous to think that declawing a
cat is a trivial procedure similar to trimming fingernails. A cat's
claws are a vital part of its anatomy, essential to balance,
mobility and survival.
Declawing is an irreversible
surgical procedure that involves amputating the last joint of the
cat's "toes." It is a very painful procedure with strong potential
to secondary complications. (Imagine having the last joint of your
own fingers amputated. Not a pleasant idea.)
On rare occasions declawing
may lead to secondary contracture of the tendons. This makes it
uncomfortable for the cat to walk. Since the last joints of their
front paws are missing, they compensate by placing more of their
weight to the hind quarters, causing them to be out of balance.
This shift of weight to the hind quarters may lead to atrophy of
the muscles of their front quarters.
Being out of balance is
extremely distressing to a cat, whose very life is about balance.
You've observed cats climbing trees, teetering perilously on a
single branch, leaping incredible heights to land on a pre-selected
spot, or threading in and out of complex arrangements of
knickknacks without disturbing a single ornament. (Unless, of
course, they choose to do so.) These are acts of balance and part
of a cat's basic heritage.
In addition to being an
intrinsic part of a cat's normal conformation, its front claws are
a cat's primary defense. Once declawed, there is no replacement or
regrowth of the claws. You may think, "My cat never goes outside."
But what if your cat accidentally gets outside and you can't find
her? She is now defenseless in a potentially hostile
environment.
Deprived of its front claws a
cat may become insecure and distressed. I can assure you that if
Kitty becomes emotionally distressed, you will too. Kitty's display
of distress tends to take such forms as urinating on your favorite
rug or spraying your antique armoir. Feeling defenseless without
her claws, Kitty may become hostile to people (including you), and
to other cats and become more apt to bite.
Some cats develop an aversion
to their litter box because of the pain associated with scratching
in the litter after a declawing procedure. If Kitty doesn't go in
the box, she will find a more comfortable place to do her business.
Often times, these habits are hard to break.
One more compelling reason not
to declaw. Some European countries have ruled declawing illegal! It
is considered inhumane.
Now its time to lighten things
up and provide you with some solutions.
Remember:
Knowledge is power
Understanding the
situation is half the battle. You and your cat are about to teach
each other some valuable lessons.
Lesson 1-Scratching is a
natural behavior for cats.
This isn't exactly a
revelation, since you probably have the evidence everywhere--in the
tattered corners of your sofa, the shredded drapes, your frayed
nerves. Though Kitty's natural propensity for scratching may not be
big news, it is a fact that you'll need to take into account if
you're to make any headway in winning the battle to keep her from
scratching in places you consider undesirable.
Lesson 2- You can't keep
your cat from scratching.
What you can do is stop her
from scratching those items you value and want to keep in their
relatively pristine state.
Bear in mind Mark Twain's
advice, which applies universally: Never try to teach a pig to
sing; it frustrates you and annoys the pig. Translate this bit of
wisdom to your dealings with cats and you'll avoid a good deal of
futility and frustration.
You can't make a cat do
anything she doesn't want to do. Get clear on that. And getting her
to stop something she enjoys is just about as difficult. Therefore
you have to think smart and re-channel her desires.
A word about
punishment--Don't do it!
Cats don't understand physical
punishment. In addition to it being wrong to hit your cat,
punishment simply doesn't work and is likely to make your situation
worse. Clever though Kitty is about many things, she won't
understand that you're punishing her for scratching the couch. She
will only compute that sometimes when you catch her she is treated
badly. This may make her insecure and stimulate her to scratch more
or develop other undesirable behavior problems.
Eventually you will break the
trust and security that is the basis for your cat's relationship
with you, and you will find it very difficult to catch her for any
reason at all.
Cats have excellent memories
and hold serious grudges.
Lesson 3- Why do cats
scratch?
More to the point, why do they
scratch your prized possessions? Understanding your cat's need to
scratch is more than just an act of charitably on your part. It's
the key to channeling Kitty's efforts to more acceptable
areas.
Marking their
territory
Scratching is a territorial
instinct by which cats place their mark and establish their turf.
Through scratching, cats mark their domains with more than just
visible signs of claw marks. Cat's paws also have scent glands that
leave their own special scent on their territory.
And this is why they mark the
most visible portions of your house. It's Kitty's way of adding her
own personal touch to your (and her) home. Her version of interior
decorating.
Exercise
Scratching also serves to keep
your cat in shape. The act of scratching stretches and pulls and
works the muscles of a cat's front quarters--a cross between a
feline gym workout and Kitty Yoga.
Sheer
pleasure
Hey! It feels
good to scratch.
So give up the idea of
reforming Kitty's desire to scratch. Rechannel her into scratching
where you want her to. You'll both be happier.
Lesson 4- Provide your cat with an
appropriate scratching post.
Since your cat brings you so
much joy, you decide to buy her the softest, prettiest and most
luxurious scratching post you can find. You take it home and your
feline friend gives you a blank stare and walks away. This
activates your parental guidance mechanism and you decide to show
her how to use the post by taking her front paws and making
scratching motions at the post. She of course struggles till she
gets free of you and then treats you with utter disdain for the
rest of the day.
Never make the mistake of
trying to "show her how" to scratch anything. You'll only offend
her. She knows perfectly well how to do it. She just reserves the
right to scratch when and where it suits her.
Lesson 5- Remember, we
said appropriate.
Bear in mind that your idea of
desirable and Kitty's may not coincide. Cats like rough surfaces
that they can shred to pieces. (The exception of course is your
velvet couch, which has its own particular appeal.) The scratching
post with the most aesthetic appeal to your cat is often a tree
stump, though this is a bit unwieldy in a one-bedroom apartment.
Whatever post you choose, it must be tall enough for her to fully
extend her body, and most important, it must be secure. If it
topples over even once, she won't go back to it.
Sisal scratching posts are
ideal for releasing Kitty's primal urges. This is a material she
can shred to pieces with great satisfaction. Be sure not to throw
it away when it is shredded, since that's when she's just broken it
in satisfactorily, and she will not appreciate your
tidiness.
A good post should be tall
enough for your Kitty to fully stretch her body, usually at least
28 inches tall, and should be very stable. An excellent example of
an exceptional scratching post is the Purrfect Post.
The reverse side of rugs
provides a good, satisfyingly resistant texture for clawing. You
can place a piece of rug material over an area of carpet where
Kitty has already been scratching. However, it must be stationary.
Secure it so it doesn't move by duct taping the edges or placing it
under furniture. You can also staple pieces of rug to a wall or
post.
Lesson 6- How to
get Kitty to prefer the post.
Remember that an important
part of scratching is the cat's desire to mark a territory, so a
scratching post should be in an area that's used by the family, not
hidden in a back corner. After a time you can move the post away to
the periphery of the room, but you'll need to do this
gradually.
Initially, put the post where
your cat goes to scratch. This may be by a sofa, a chair or
wherever Kitty has chosen as her territory, and you may need more
than one post to cover her favorite spots. Security is a major
factor in making the post appealing to your cat. If it topples or
shakes, she won't use it. It should either be secured to the floor
or have a base wide enough and heavy enough to keep it
stable.
Encourage Kitty to use her
post with clever enticements. Feed her and play with her by the
post. Rub dried catnip leaves or powder into it. Make all the
associations with the post pleasurable. Reward her with a favorite
treat when she uses it. Have her chase a string or a toy around the
post or attach toys to it, which will result in her digging her
claws into it. Eventually she will learn to love it and regard it
as her own. It's also a good idea to put a post where Kitty sleeps.
Cats like to scratch when they awaken, especially in the morning
and the middle of the night. If space permits, a scratching post in
every room of the house is a cat's delight. The most important
place is the area of the house in which you and Kitty spend the
most time. I have many sisal posts in my house, yet often in the
morning my cats line up to use the one in the living
room.
If at first Kitty is reluctant
to give up her old scratching areas, there are means you can use to
discourage her. Covering the area with aluminum foil or
double-sided tape is a great deterrent. These surfaces don't have a
texture that feels good to scratch.
Remember too that Kitty has
marked her favorite spots with her scent as well as her claws. You
may need to remove her scent from the areas you want to distract
her away from. You will find pet odor removers in pet stores and
many supermarkets as well.
Cats have an aversion to
citrus odors. Use lemon-scented sprays or a potpourri of lemon and
orange peels to make her former scratching sites less agreeable to
her.
If Kitty still persists in
scratching the furniture, try squirting her with a water gun or a
spray bottle set on stream. Another option is a loud whistle or
other noise-maker. You must employ these deterrents while she is
scratching for them to be effective. The point is to establish an
aversion to the spot you don't want her to scratch.
Lesson 7- Start them
young.
If you are starting with a
kitten, consider yourself fortunate. It's much easier to initiate
good habit patterns than to correct undesirable ones.
From the beginning teach your
kitten the appropriate place to scratch. Use the methods already
described, especially playing around the scratching post to capture
her interest. Take advantage of your kitten's desire to play and
attach toys to the post. She will soon "dig in" to catch her toy
and discover how good it feels to scratch this surface.
Do not take her paws
and make her scratch the post. This is a major turn-off and will
only inspire a bratty "you can't make me" attitude. Even at an
early age, cats refuse to be coerced into doing what they don't
want to do.
If she starts to scratch an
inappropriate object, immediately place her in front of her
scratching post and begin petting her. Some cats will begin
kneading when petted, thus digging their claws into the desired
surface and establishing this as a fine place to
scratch.
Cats are creatures of habit.
Start them off with good ones.
Alternate
Solutions
Trimming your cat's
nails.
Though you should never
declaw, you may defray some of your cat's potential for destruction
by carefully trimming the razor-sharp tips of her claws. You will
find this endeavor more easily accomplished by two people, one to
hold Kitty and one to trim her nails. Though she enjoys other forms
of pampering, Kitty will not find a manicure soothing.
Gently hold Kitty's paw in one
hand and with your thumb on top of the paw and forefinger on the
pad gently squeeze your thumb and finger together. This will push
the claw clear of the fur so it can easily be seen. You will notice
that the inside of the claw is pink near its base. This is living
tissue that you do not want to cut. Trim only the clear tip of
the nail. Do not clip the area where pink tissue is
visible nor the slightly opaque region that outlines the pink
tissue. This will avoid cutting into areas that would be painful or
bleed. The desired effect is simply to blunt the claw tip. Many
different types of nail trimmers are available in pet stores. Be
sure to get one specifically for trimming cat's nails.
If by now you're rolling on
the floor laughing because you know your cat isn't about
to let you trim her claws, here are a couple of guidelines that
will help make this a possibility: Patience and
preparation.
Rushing into a full-scale claw
trimming is a foolhardy move unless you're really into operatic
drama and traumatic events. As you well know, cats hate to be
restrained. And they don't like you fooling with their paws, which
comes across as threatening. After all, their claws are a major
tool for survival, and Kitty may consider your motives
suspect.
This is where preparation
comes to the rescue. For approximately a week before her manicure,
begin making Kitty accustomed to having her paws handled. While
petting and soothing her, start massaging her paws, especially on
the under side. Gently press on the individual pads at the base of
her claws. You may want to give her treats to reward her for not
protesting. (Or as in the case of my own cat, to distract her from
doing so.) The point, of course, is to make the process reassuring
so that she will eventually feel comfortable enough to let you
handle her paws without protest.
Next, be patient. Don't
attempt to trim all her nails at once. Trim one or two at a time,
reward her with affection or food, and then let her do as she
wishes. Cats are not strong on patience or restraint. As the
creature theoretically higher on to evolutionary scale, that's your
department. Don't attempt to change your cat. Instead make it
tolerable for her. Eventually trimming will become a completely
non-traumatic experience.
Soft
Paws®--An excellent alternative
If all of this is too time
consuming and you have a strictly indoor cat, you have another very
desirable option; a wonderful product called Soft Paws®.
These are lightweight vinyl caps that you apply over your cat's own
claws. They have rounded edges, so your cat's scratching doesn't
damage your home and furnishings.
Soft Paws® are
great for households with small children, as they guard against the
child getting scratched. They are also extremely useful for people
who are away from home all day and simply can't apply the
watchfulness necessary to train a cat to use a scratching post. An
important caveat here, however; they should be used only
on indoor cats, since they blunt one of the cat's chief means of
self-defense.
Soft Paws® last
approximately six weeks once Kitty becomes accustomed to them. At
first they may feel a bit strange to her and she may groom them
excessively, causing them to come off sooner. She'll get used to
them quickly though, and thereafter they will last longer. It is
amazing how well cats tolerate the Soft Paws®, most
don't even notice they are wearing them.
Soft Paws® come in a kit and are easy to apply. Just
glue them on. They are generally applied to the front paws only,
since these are what cause most of the destruction to your home. A
kit will last approximately three to six months, depending on your
cat. After applying the Soft Paws®, check Kitty's claws
weekly. You may find one or two caps missing from time to time, and
these are easily replaced using the adhesive included in the kit.
To make application easier for both you and your cat, follow the
instructions on accustoming your cat to having her paws handled
that are discussed here in the section on trimming your cat's
claws.
The great majority of cats tolerate Soft Paws® well.
The brattiest of my own cats, a princess who is hyper-fastidious,
wears them with aplomb. On her, by the way, one Soft
Paws® kit last at least five months.
As a checklist, here
are the pertinent things to remember:
1- Don't declaw!
2- Understand your cat's need to scratch.
3- Forget punishment--it doesn't work.
4- Provide a suitable place for your cat to scratch.
5- Make the scratching post attractive to Kitty-- i.e. use sisal posts.
6- Make the place she's been scratching unattractive--physical or
scent related deterrents.
7- Whenever possible, start cats young.
8- You may want to trim your cat's claws.
9- For indoor cats, consider Soft Paws® as extra
insurance, or an easy alternative.