Exquisite architecture, bustling markets and delectable cuisine are
served up in a day's tour of Japan's second largest city.
a. Osaka Municipal Central Wholesale Markets
MORNING comes early in Osaka, the kitchen of the world. Get up
before the break of day and cab down to the Osaka Municipal Central
Wholesale Markets, hailed as the largest wholesale market in the
Orient.
Opened in 1931, the market spreads
over 320,000-square metres, approximately 8 times as large as
the famous Koshien baseball park.
First, head straight to the fish market to see the "refrigerated
tuna sellers" and gawk at the massive size of the tunas, which can
weigh anywhere between 100 to 300 kg.
At 4.15am, the ringing of a bell kicks off an auction.
The proceedings are led by a trained deep voice - that of the
auctioneer - which resonates in the premises like an unceasing
loudspeaker. Sharped-eyed brokers quickly make signs
with fingers, bidding for the tuna.
Observe closely as the hundreds of tuna are sold out in just
30-minutes. Various fish such as blowfish and snappers are
next but they play second fiddle to the tuna.
b. Stroll through the fish wholesale market
Thee are about 180 shops which handle fresh fish, while
80 others deal with dried and other processed marine
products.
Watch what happens to the tuna that was auctioned off
earlier - the frozen varieties are processed
through a machine, fresh ones are cut with 50 to 60-cm
long knives. It's like watching skilled artists in performance. The
products? Sliced red tuna meat which gleams in the
light.
c. Sushi restaurant Endo
There are numerous restaurants serving the market's workers,
which whip up anything from sushi and eels, to grilled chicken
and set meals. Tourists should not miss out on them either. (Many
of the eateries are closed by noon, so don’t forget to check
their business hours).
Look for "Endo" on the side of the front parking lot of the
market. Established in 1907, this restaurant is known
for their “Tsukami zushi” - fish on lightly shaped, slightly
warm rice, delicious quick bites designed for the busy
merchant.
Try the "Chef’s choice", a plate of tuna and 5 assorted sushi for
1,050 yen. "Endo" is a hive of activity throughout opening hours,
having only five tables and a counter that can accommodate five to
six customers.
d. Stroll through the vegetable and fruit wholesale
market
Once you've had your fill, head up to the third floor to the
vegetable market, where you'll witness a more subdued auctioning, a
vastly different affair from the morning's tuna rush.
A five-minutes walk through the management building looking at the
stores of dry food will bring you to the fruit market. The
auction starts around 5.50am here.
Here you'll see fruits like apples and melons placed on a
conveyor belt, while auctioneers on a pedestal shout for
business. Wholesale buyers are lined up opposite the auctioneers
and successful bidders conveniently carry off
their spoils.
Wander through the wholesale shops, which also boast a
rich variety of imported fruit, like durians and mangoes
from Southeast Asia, and bananas from Taiwan.
With careful negotiation, some shops will sell their fruits by the
box, at prices significantly cheaper compared to those found in
town. They make good gifts, or great snacks to take
along.
Had enough of the market? Leave and head south across
Funatsubashi for about 10 minutes. Cool down and take a leisurely
stroll in the greenery-filled Utsubo Park, or have morning coffee
at the Rihga Royal Hotel.
Getting to the Osaka Municipal Central Wholesale Market
Cab down or take a 15-minute walk from JR Noda
Station. The earliest train leaves at 5am.
IN THE
AFTERNOON
EXPLORE the Nakanoshima-Yodoyabashi -Kitahama -Semba environs
where modern buildings stand alongside a treasure trove of retro
architecture.
The latter recalls Osaka’s golden days, when an economic peak was
reached at the end of the Meiji-Taisho-early Showa era. It was then
that the city picked up the moniker “Big Osaka”, as the population
boomed and buildings were designed with exceptional grandeur.
a. Bank of Japan Osaka
Branch
Make your way to the Osaka station and take a 15-minute
walk along the Mido-suji to the south. Cross Oe Bridge over Dojima
River, and you are in Nakanoshima - a narrow sandbar between
Dojima River and Tosabori River.
See the warehouses of various fiefdoms lined up around the
area - which enjoyed brisk business in the Edo era.
The Bank of Japan Osaka Branch is built in one of the former
warehouse of the Shimabara fief where the villa of a businessman,
Tomoatsu Godai, occupied in 1903.
A neo-renaissance style building designed by Kingo Tatsuno - the
no. 1 architect during the Meiji era - it strikes an
impressive dome roof washed in blue-green.
Make a reservation request three months to two
weeks before your visit, and you can see the
bank's interior on a guided 1-hour tour.
tel: Bank of Japan Osaka
Branch, Operation Department 06-6206-7748
b. Osaka City
Hall
There used to be four modern buildings on the east side of
Nakanoshima - The Bank of Japan Osaka Branch, City Hall,
Prefectural Nakanoshima Library, and Central Public Hall, creating
a grand view symbolising “Big Osaka”.
Unfortunately the former City Hall was demolished and the current
new building was built in 1985.
But you can still get a feel for the grandeur of the past.
Look for an image of the "Big Osaka Tour" made in
1937 at the image information corner on the 1st floor of the
City Hall.
tel: 06-6208-8181
(main)
c. Osaka Prefectural
Nakanoshima Library
Go out of the east door of the Osaka City Hall and see
the neo-baroque style Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima
Library.
Built in 1904, its four broad columns are reminiscent of a Grecian
temple.
Influenced by Western philanthropists, Kichizaemon Sumitomo, 15th
head of the Sumitomo Family, donated funds for its construction and
the purchase of books.
The library's high ceiling, stained glass, and well-polished
railing of the stairway show that the spirit of the Osaka merchant
is still alive after 100 years. Half of its collection was
transferred to the Prefectural Central Library built in Higashi
Osaka City in 1996, but it still has a precious collection.
People don’t stop coming to this nationally important cultural
property.
d. Nakanoshima Central
Public Hall
Further east of Prefectural Nakanoshima Library is the
neo-renaissance style Nakanoshima Central Public Hall, with its
beautiful red bricks and arches.
Since it was completed in 1918, it has played a huge role in the
cultural and artistic development of modern Osaka. It has seen
luminaries like Helen Keller who lectured there, and a
visit by Yuri Gagarin, the first cosmonaut.
Construction of the Public Hall started in 1913 with 1,000,000 yen
donated to Osaka City by a stockbroker Einosuke Iwamoto.
Iwamoto failed in his investment ventures, and committed suicide at
the tender age of 39 before the completion of the hall. His
memorial room is located downstairs in the hall.
Preservation renewal work was completed in 2002, and it was
designated as a key national cultural property.
tel: 06-6208-2002
e. Lion
Bridge
From Central Public Hall take a three-minute walk east, which will
bring you face-to-face with the Naniwabashi (Naniwa
Bridge).
Take a photograph of the stone statues of brave-looking
lions - called “Ah-Un Lions” - at the north and
south ends of the bridge. In the Edo era,
Naniwabashi extended over a magnificent
200-metres and a poem containing the word “Shi-shi” was
composed to . The pronunciation of "Shi-shi"
is similar to the Japanese word for lion.
There are many other explanations as to why the lion
statues were made but this is one of the most popular. The current
bridge was built in 1915, and remains a source of pride for Osaka
citizens.
Next, cross this bridge to the south, and proceed to Kitahama.
f. Osaka
Securities Exchange
Before it became a financial hub, this was the Rice Exchange which
traded rice coming from the hans (fiefdoms) all over Japan
in the Edo era.
It was only in 1878 that the building - located to the southeast of
Naniwabashi - became the Securities Exchange. Presently, security
companies and banks concentrate in today's Osaka Securities
Exchange, and it remains the center of the city's economy.
The grand white cylindrical exchange office, completed in 1935, was
reborn in 2002 as a high rise building, but the front
wall of the former exchange building is preserved.
It conveys the atmosphere of the time as the face of Kitahama. The
statue of Tomoatsu Godai, foster father of the Osaka economy stands
in front of the building.
http://www.ose.or.jp/e/
tel: 06-6946-4428
g. Osaka
Club
Take a 10-minute walk to the west from Osaka Securities Exchange
and head into the southeast of the Sumitomo Bank Main
Office.
An elegant 4-story building immediately catches the eye. Built
in 1924, The Osaka Club is one of the key examples of
modern architecture, a hybrid of southern-European style and
Oriental design.
Designed by notable architect Takeo Yasui, the place
is now used exclusively by members of the Osaka
Club - an English style social club established in 1912.
tel: 06-6231-8631
h.
Yodoyabashi
Go north again along Mido-suji from Osaka Club, and check out
Yodoyabashi (Yodoya Bridge), which crosses the Tosabori
River.
Legend has it that this bridge was built by a grand merchant Yodoya
in front of his mansion. There is a monument to mark the mansion at
the southern foot of the bridge.
The current bridge was built in 1935, with feedback from general
public contributing to its design.
IN THE
EVENING
THE city of Minori is where many tourists go to
end their day. Start off the evening with a Bunraku puppet
play at National Bunraku Theatre, then stroll along the alleys
of Dotombori street, soaking up its vibrant nightlife
of food and shopping.
First make your way to Nippombashi Station, using the subway's
Sakai-suji or Sennichimae lines.
a. National Bunraku
Theatre
Right at the doorstep of the Nipponbashi Station is
Osaka's famed theatre, where you can catch a Bunraku performance.
Bunraku, a form of puppet theatre, has its origins in Osaka
and the National Bunraku Theatre is where appreciation classes
and young performers’ groups are also held, in addition to
performances.
Show genres range from familiar tragic romances to historical
stories and horror stories. The magic of Bunraku is created by
the interplay of the narrator’s voice, the musical instrument
shamisen, and characters that are skillfully brought to life
by puppeteers. For those unfamiliar with the art form, audio guides
are available.
Two to three shows are put up daily during the performance
season. After the show, take a stroll to Dotombori.
http://www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english/index.html
admission: Varies
according to the performance
tel: 06-6212-2531
b. Hozenji
Yokocho
A seven-minute walk from Bunraku Theatre will bring you
to a noisy main street, “Hozenji Yokocho”. This
narrow, stone-paved lane is filled with long-established
Japanese restaurants, bars, okonomiyaki restaurants, and skewered
cutlet shops.
This area was originally within the premises of Hozenji temple of
Tenryuzan, Jodo sect, and the stalls catering
to worshippers developed into the alley. The temple and the
alleys were burnt down in the air raids of World War
II but they were revived as an entertainment district after
the war.
http://www7.ocn.ne.jp/~houzenji/
tel: 06-6211-4152
(Hozenji)
c. Shoben
Tangotei
A Japanese restaurant established in 1893, Shoben Tangotei was
introduced in Sakunosuke Oda's novel “Meoto Zenzai”. In fact,
there's a stone memorial with a passage from the classic book in
front of the eatery. The unusual name Shoben Tangotei means “Our
store with sincere heart, we behave rightly" and the service is
top-notch. Be sure to try out the Miso oden (￥630/
$9.20) .
tel: 06-6211-3208
d.
Ebiya
For those with deep pockets, the spiny lobsters at Ebiya are a
scrumptious treat. They are cooked to order, and taste
plump and sweet. An all-lobster menu includes sashimi, stewed
lobster in a broth, suki-nabe, and deep fried lobster.
http://www.ebiya.net/
tel: 06-6211-0873
e. BAR
“Michi”
The master of BAR “Michi” succeeded his mother over 30 years ago in
the corner of Yokocho. His ever-growing regular customers are a
loyal bunch and it's hard not to know why.“I treat everybody as an
ordinary customer no matter how great or famous they are. I think
that is why the customers like to come here and relax,” he
says.
So do not worry if you are a first-timer. Open the door, and about
600 kinds of liquor and the master’s homemade raisin butter will
welcome you.
tel: 06-6211-0928
Information in this article was
provided by City of Osaka Recreation & Tourism Bureau / Osaka
Convention & Tourism Bureau. To find out more about Osaka,
visit www.osaka-info.jp/en/