Jakki
Phillips suggests a weekend itinerary that
reveals a more cultural side to the oft-overlooked Philippine
capital.
It’s only two hours away from Hong Kong, the weather is hot and the
people are warm and welcoming. Epicureans can graze at the Saturday
food market and sample delicious organic chocolate, sip locally
grown coffee or taste endless artisanal breads, cheeses and cakes.
Those into arts and crafts can snap up absolute bargains at a
tranquil, leafy artist community selling beautiful furniture,
homeware and ceramics. Fashionistas can bag themselves a great
value outfit from one of the country’s hot new designers while
those who fancy some pampering can experience a traditional massage
with coconut oil and warm banana leaves and pay about half the
price of Singapore spas. You probably think we’re talking about
Bangkok? No—this is Manila, a city rapidly becoming a weekend
hotspot for cultural and food-loving Hongkongers. If you thought it
was just a sprawling metropolis with little to see or do—then think
again. Follow our suggested weekend itinerary and discover the new
face of cultural Manila.
Evening: The Peninsula Hopper
Begin your weekend in Manila with a culinary journey that leads you
through four of The Peninsula’s restaurants, eating a different
course in each one. Called “The Peninsula Hopper,” it starts with
appetizers in Spices Pavilion then continues with the first main
course in Mi Piace, the second main course in Old Manila and
dessert in Escolta. It’s available for a minimum of two people and
costs P4,750. For details of The Peninsula see Where to Stay.
9am-11am:
If These Walls Could Speak Walking Tour
Walking tours come in all shapes and sizes and can vary from a dull
trudge behind a robotic guide regurgitating a monotonous lecture to
“If These Walls Could Speak”—without doubt the best tour we’ve ever
been on. Calling himself “the man who is trying to change the way
you look at Manila,” our guide Carlos Celdran delivers a crash
course in the city’s turbulent history in a surprisingly frank and
cheeky two-hour tour. Dressed in traditional Filipino clothes and
blasting music from a portable tape player, he leads us from Manila
Cathedral around the walled city of Intramurous, Manila’s oldest
and most atmospheric district. Along the way there is a rather
bumpy ride in a horse-drawn carriage, a hearty rendition of the
Filipino national anthem and some rather intimate his-and-hers
toilets! The tour gallops along at a fun pace, with fast facts and
silly quizzes but also some moments of sad reflection. With the
skill of one of the Royal Shakespeare Company’s finest, Carlos
brings alive the tragedy of the past with powerful, and sometimes
shocking, stories of WWII death and destruction. As Carlos so
rightly says, “You can’t change Manila, but you can change the way
you see Manila.” After this tour, Manila will never seem the same
again.
Tour times and dates vary so check Carlos’s website before you book
your trip. Costs P900. Visit
celdrantours.blogspot.com/2008/11/tour-dates-tour-rates.html
Noon-2pm:
Salcedo Village Market
This charming and bustling market is packed with colorful stalls
selling everything from heavenly organic cakes and locally grown
coffee to cheeses, breads, oils, dips and chewy sweets made from
water buffalo milk. It’s an ideal place for grazing with hundreds
of freshly made dishes on offer from around the region. It’s also
fantastic for food shopping. Top local buys include pesto made with
super nutritious mallunggay leaves, blocks of organic chocolate and
smooth and aromatic balako coffee. The market is well organized,
impressively hygienic and everyone is polite, friendly and eager to
chat about their homemade products. Most stalls offer free tasters
and prices are very reasonable. Pack your suitcase lightly so you
can take loads of Filipino treats back home with you. The market is
open every Saturday from 7am until 2pm. Salcedo Market, parking lot
of Torsedillas, Salcedo and Luisto Sts., Salcedo Village, Makati
City.
Late
afternoon: Manila Design Trip
If you love interior design then you’ll fall head over heels in
love with the galleries in Harrison Street. It’s a quiet and
secluded leafy compound where 1940s-style houses open their doors
to the public to exhibit and sell beautiful arts, crafts,
furniture, ceramics and sculptures. And most importantly—they are
amazingly cheap! With frangipani trees casting shade over the
street, this tranquil community is a rare find in Manila. Start at
Avellana Art Gallery, which specializes in eye-catching Filipino
art, then head over the road to a-11, which sells limited edition
furniture and homeware. Your final stop should be the atelier of
well-known fashion designer Jesus “Joji” Lloren. These
galleries 
are
open to the public (Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm) but we advise calling ahead
to check times. The Peninsula offers an exclusive trip for guests
which includes a delicious Filipino lunch or a dinner buffet in one
of the serene gallery spaces. The Manila Design Trip includes
transport to and from the hotel and costs P25,000. Book it via the
concierge.
Avellana Art Gallery, 2680 FB Harrison St., Pasay City, (632)
833-8357.
a 11, 2680 FB Harrison St., Pasay City, (632) 832-9972.
Jesus “Joji” Lloren, House B-20, 2680 FB Harrison St., Pasay City,
(632) 401-1194.
Evening:
Dinner at Travel Café
This hip Manila hangout is not only a mellow café and modern
Filipino restaurant, but also a travel shop where you can book a
trip to one of the stunning islands and a shop selling everything
from CDs of local music to stoneware pottery. The food is
excellent—expect modern interpretations of well-loved local dishes
such as adobo (chicken marinated in soy sauce vinaigrette stuffed
with liver), Batangas beef ribs, or braised oxtail served with
banana heart. End your meal with the Philippine’s most famous and
extravagant dessert, halo halo. Expect a rainbow-colored tower of
different flavored ice creams, shaved ices, sweet preserved beans,
coconut and fruit. One portion feeds at least four.
Travel Café Philippines, Greenbelt 5, L/2, Ayala Center, Makati
City, Manila,www.travelcafephilippines.com.
Until Late: Café Havana
Leave the Travel Café and follow the rhythms of salsa outside the
shopping mall and you’ll find Café Havana where you can dance the
night away to the sounds of a live Latino band.
Café Havana, Greenbelt 3, Level 1, Estrella St., Ayala Center,
Makati City, (632) 757-4370.
Early Morning: Filipino Massage
Start your day with a traditional Filipino hilot massage which uses
heated banana leaves and warm virgin coconut oil to sooth tired
muscles and ease built-up tension. P2,750 for 90 minutes, The
Peninsula Spa.
Late
morning: Greenbelt Shopping Mall
Whether you want to bag a bargain from an up-and-coming Filipino
designer or sip a cool glass of mango juice in an alfresco café,
Greenbelt shopping mall is the place for you. There’s plenty of
outdoor dining and drinking areas shaded by towering trees
decorated by pretty lanterns and twinkling fairy lights. If you’re
a shopaholic, you could easily spend a day here as prices are often
cheaper than in Hong Kong and you’ll find all the high-end brands
from Jimmy Choo to Marc Jacobs. For a great-value piece by one of
Manila’s hot young designers, check out Joyce Makitalo, who creates
bold and chunky semi-precious stone jewelry set in brass and dipped
in 24k gold, and fashion designer Kate Torralba whose current
“Paperdoll” collection is sexy, cheeky and irresistibly
colorful.
Kate Torralba, 2/F, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati
City,
www.facebook.com/KTdesigns.
Joyce Makitalo for Firma, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center Makati
City,
www.joycemakitalo.com.
Afternoon:
Gold of Ancestors Exhibition at the Ayala Museum
There are few existing records of the pre-colonial history and
culture of the Philippines, so it’s no wonder this exhibition of
gold, dating back to the 10th century, has whipped people into such
an excited frenzy. It features 1,059 precious objects, all of which
give a fascinating insight into the mysterious past of the
Philippines. Among these priceless items is a collection of
eerie-looking death masks, some massive earrings which were worn
around the entire ear, rather than dangling from the lobe (pictured
below), and a golden sash weighing a rather exhausting 3.9kg. Also
on display are necklaces, anklets, ornaments and ritual containers.
Begin with the video screening (scheduled every 10 minutes). It’s
worth exploring the whole museum (which can be done in about two
hours) in particular the exhibition of 17th and 18th Philippine
costumes and the work of Filipino abstract artist Fernando
Zobel.
Ayala Museum, Makati Avenue, corner of De la Rosa St., Greenbelt
Park, 1224 Makati City, www.ayalmuseum.org.
Evening: Departure
Sadly it’s time to wave good-bye to Manila and fly back to Hong
Kong with a suitcase packed with tasty organic goodies from the
food market, bargain designer gear from the Philippine fashion
elite, and beautiful homeware from Harrison Road. No doubt, like
our tour guide Carlos, you’ll want to spread the word about Manila
and help change people’s perception of this all too often
misunderstood city.
Manila is a heavily congested city so it’s important to stay
centrally so you can walk around, or get short taxi rides, and
avoid losing precious hours sitting in hideous traffic jams. Not
only is The Peninsula Manila an elegant and luxurious hotel but
it’s also in the heart of the lifestyle and entertainment district.
For example, Salcedo Village Market, the Greenbelt shopping complex
and the Ayala Museum are only a 10-minute walk away. It also offers
a great range of exclusive excursions including the previously
mentioned Manila Design Trip, “If These Walls Could Speak” walking
tour, and lunch or dinner at the 1920s art deco Legarda-Montinola
mansion. When you’re not exploring Manila you can relax in their
outdoor heated pool, indulge in some pampering in the spa, sip a
cocktail in the magnificent lobby or dine in their famous
restaurants. The Peninsula Manila, corner of Ayala and Makati
Avenue, 1226 Makati City, Manila, (632) 887-2888, www.peninsula.com
Stay centrally and walk or grab a taxi—they’re cheap but slow due
to heavy congestion. Fix a price or make sure the meter is on
before you start your journey.
Philippine Airlines operates four flights daily from Singapore to
Manila. The journey is just under four hours. Return flights start
from $198. For more information visit: www.philippineairlines.com.
SG $1 = 32.66 Philippine Pesos