Winnie Yeung hits up the capital
of the Philippines
Admit it—Manila has never been
high on the list of Asian cities to visit. But with more money
pouring into the city, there’s suddenly an abundance of things to
see and do. Here are some of our top finds.
Filipino Food
With a new generation of
overseas-trained chefs returning to their homeland, the restaurant
scene in Manila is booming. Rolando Laudico is a young chef who
hopes to bring his national cuisine into the international arena
with his restaurant, Bistro Filipino (Net Two Building, 3rd Avenue,
The Fort, 856-0634). Take the prawn taramind bisque, for example.
Many think that bisque is a western dish, but actually, it’s
modernized from “sinigang,” the Philippines’ version of tom yum
soup. Made with seafood, coconut milk and tamarind (which
contributes to its sourness), the soup is traditionally served in a
big bowl during a family meal. But Chef Laudico serves it in a
martini glass—the sinigang is made into a jelly at the bottom with
hot lemongrass and coconut foam on top. You stir the jelly and foam
up at the same time to get the perfect flavor and
texture.
Japanese Eats
You might not know it, but Japan
imports a lot of fish from the Philippines to meet the huge demand
back home, which of course means affordable and deliciously fresh
sashimi abounds in the capital city. John and Yoko (2/F, Greenbelt
5, 729-8698) is a hugely popular contemporary Japanese eatery in
the high-end mall Greenbelt (more on that later). We recommend the
huge, delicious platter called “We Found Nemo” which has generous
portions of four types of sashimi and three types of creative sushi
rolls.
Vintage Beers
Curious as it may sound (the
fresher the beer, the better, right?), “vintage beer” is readily
available in Manila. You probably haven’t heard of it before,
because it’s not exactly cost-effective—it’s brewed like normal
beer before going through fermentation again in hardened bottles,
stoppered with champagne corks. According to beer importer Denny
Wang, who owns Yats Wine Cellar (3003C East Tower, Philippines
Stock Exchange Center, Ortigas, 633-1566, www.yatswinecellars.com),
five years fermentation is needed for a beer to achieve complexity
of taste. He even said we could pair it with food. We tried the
2003 Maudite from Canada—we wouldn’t say it has a complex flavor
but it certainly has a better aftertaste than “fresh” beer and a
higher alcohol content to boot. We liked it, but it was quite
expensive, so we probably wouldn’t wash it down like San Miguel.
The real clients are, in fact, gamblers who win big in their
casinos.
A must-do in Manila is joining a
historical tour with Carlos Celdran. He runs a morning tour around
Intramuros, the walled city built 400 years ago during the Spanish
occupation. Unfortunately, there’s little left inside those walls
due to the bombings of World War II. But the real highlight is
Celdran’s personalized (and highly animated) tour. For just S$27
(two hours, book at celdrantours.blogspot.com or through The
Peninsula if you stay there), you can enjoy his one-man show as he
colorfully tells the country’s 400-year history with props and
costumes. The San Agustin Church—the only unharmed structure
remaining in the walled city—is also not to be missed. At first
glance, it looks like a European-style House of God. But look
closer: All the “sculptures” and “carvings” on the ceiling are
actually just drawings, making clever use of shading to leave them
looking like actual, three-dimensional sculptures—the Europeans
call it “trompe l’oeil.” “That’s what Filipino style is—decorate
anything to death,” says Celdran.
Meanwhile, Pasay City, despite
being an area rife with squatters and poorly designed buildings, is
home to a vibrant art and design compound. Built as an estate for
expats back in the 1950s, the compound has more than a dozen retro
American-style bungalows shaded by trees. Albert Avellana opened
the Avellana Art Gallery (House A-19, 2680 F.B. Harrison St.,
833-8357) in one of these houses. “The décor creates a nice
juxtaposition,” he says.
With money pouring into the
capital, it’s no surprise that high-end malls like Greenbelt at
Makati (Ayala Center, Makati City 1224, 817-5015) have sprung up.
It’s as high-class and stylish as one can get—even by Singapore
standards. The mall is a 1.3-million-square-foot retail complex,
with shops ranging from the biggest brands to inexpensive local
labels. One shop we loved was Religioso (2/F, Greenbelt 5,
729-9061), a local fashion brand that has avant-garde but highly
wearable dresses. A sci-fi-inspired dress is only around
S$100.
Who doesn’t love a bargainous spa
when they go on holiday? Our favorite in Manila was the Sanctuario
Spa (1829 Jorge Bocobo St., 450-1127), which is located in a
bungalow in the Bohemian area at Malate. For just S$67, you get the
two-hour Banahaw Mystique, which is a package of traditional
Filipino healing rituals. It starts off with an herbal steam, then
an Albularyo seven-herbs bath to soothe aches, followed by Bentosa
cupping (similar to the Chinese variety) and finally ends with a
strong Hilot massage. The bungalow itself might be too local for
lovers of luxury, but it’s certainly relaxing, unpretentious, and
actually helps to alleviate travel fatigue.
Alternatively, try out the Chi Spa
at Edsa Shangri-la (1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, 633-8888). It’s
pure indulgence. We tried the exclusive two-hour Himalayan Tsangpo
Ritual (S$220). The treatment is done at a decked-out spa suite and
starts with a Tethys sea salt scrub to detoxify the body and
Himalayan red mountain mud on a heated plinth to rejuvenate your
skin. A head and scalp massage completes the treatment. With the
treatment and the room (and the fab ginger tea they serve), we’d
say it’s a good soul-cleansing routine—especially after the
excesses of the holiday. -
Essentials
Dialing code: +63-2
Currency: S$1=PhP30
Philippine Airlines flies to
Manila from Singapore several times a day. Fares start from S$188
return (tax not included).
Reservations: Philippine Airlines,
Singapore Ticket Office, #10-02 Parklane Shopping Mall, 35 Selegie
Rd., 6336-1611 or www.philippineairlines.com.
The Peninsula Manila is one of the
first big luxury hotels in the country, and while the ’70s retro
exterior tells its history, the interior is classical luxury. The
newly-renovated Makati Tower has spacious rooms overlooking the
buzz of Makati. Modern amenities include a flat-screen TV, free
broadband access, fax machines and a two-line phone. It is also
just five minutes away from the two major mega malls: Glorietta and
Greenbelt. The Peninsula Manila, corner of Ayala and Makati
Avenues, 887-2888, www.peninsula.com. -i-s mag