Cities Of Caprice

Bangulzai SG

Cities Of Caprice

Southeast Asia’s most erratic cities keep us keen with originality and reinvention. By Michele Koh

When it comes to travel, most I-S readers are a savvy lot. We have ventured as far out as Alaska and Prague, but there is nothing more comforting and familiar (and value for money) than taking romantic getaways or long weekends in regional capitals like Bangkok, Jakarta or Hong Kong. Like Singapore, the shopping, dinning, nightlife and hotels in these cities have a lot to offer, and every few years or so, we can expect new outlets replacing the old. Capricious charm and a desire to impress is what make these Asian metropolises so alluring. Here are some of the hottest highlights of the moment and some perennial favorites that you should check out if you haven’t already.

BANGKOK
Bangkok is one decadent and delightful city where you can buy your wildest dreams. And one night here will sure make a hard man humble. Untamed, frantic and constantly aiming to tease and please, this is one city that will have you on your knees.

BUY
Bangkok is famous for its markets, like the massive Chatuchak where you can find everything from wooden frogs, to silk flowers to live animals, all at ridiculously low prices. Though Patpong Night Market is renowned for its fake branded goods, we suggest you try Suan Lum Night Market. It opens at 6pm and closes around midnight, is less cramped than Patpong and Chatuchak, and also has live bands and various food stalls.
If you prefer air-conditioned comfort, then try CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., Pathumwan, +66-2-222-9855, www.centralworld.co.th). Relaunched in July 2006, CentralWorld is now the largest shopping complex in Southeast Asia. It houses department stores Isetan and Zen as well as international brands like Guy Laroche, Esprit and Dorothy Perkins. On the sixth floor is a section called Asian Senses with Asian themed furniture, fashion, antiques and object d’arts, and on the seventh floor is the only Thai government operated Duty Free Shop.

SAVOR
The most recent addition to the Dome State Tower, Breeze (1055 Silom Rd., Bangrak, +66-2-624-9555) is the newest chi chi restaurant that was glam enough to be featured in a Wallpaper* fashion shoot. It serves contemporary Asian seafood like South Australian cold water lobster, tossed with chili marinated cabbage and jelly fish julienne for 6,900 THB ($292) and roasted silver cod caramelized with Laurent Perrier champagne and Chinese honey for 2,1906 THB ($928). The sky high price tags are worth it simply because the restaurant itself is a real architectural beauty of light and glass. It’s on the 51st floor, with a skybridge suspended above a lily pond for an entrance. Definitely the “it” place where Bangkok’s rich, beautiful and famous wine and dine.
While Bangkok and New Orleans may be worlds apart, they do have a few things in common: A prominent bar culture, sultry seductress’s that will throw off their beads or under things when inebriated, and a place called Bourbon Street that serves great Creole cooking. Bangkok, Creole? Yes indeed. You’ll find a scrumptious Cajun seafood gumbo, chicken fried steak or jambalaya at the Bourbon Street Restaurant and Bar (29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Washington Sq., +62-2-590-3289). Mains are served with a side of cornbread, potato au gratin, friend okra and green beans. Though the interior is dark and vintage, (it looks like the bar in the sitcom Cheers), the food has made this one of the cities top spots for those who live here.

GROOVE
For a clubbing experience like no other, you have to check out Bed Supperclub (26 Soi Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey-nua, Wattana, +66-2-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com) if you’re not one of the hundreds that have already partied here. This futuristic post-modernist space is a dance club, art gallery, theater, stage and upscale restaurant rolled into one. The idea is that you kick of your shoes, let your hair down and relax while you dine lying on elongated sofa beds. On weekends, they serve a surprise four-course meal and everyone dines at the same time. They also host fabulous gay and lesbian parties with burlesque shows. Naturally, a place as “wow” as this draws the very perfect looking model type crowd, so you want to make sure you’re looking, or at least feeling hot and confident when you step in.
If you want something newer, with more focus on the music, try Club 808 (Block C, Royal City Ave., www.808bangkok.com). The newest club in Bangkok brings in some of the biggest names in dance music and has gotten music aficionados from across Asia scrambling for air tickets to Bangkok. With the three club owners being former DJs themselves, and the club’s name being inspired by the ultimate drum machine—the Roland 808—it’s no wonder this young club is drawing in legions of true blue dance music mavens. The club’s entertainment director David Milligan says, “808 is full-on. We have a huge sound system, great lighting and awesome visuals....We have a Nexo Alpha system. The sound quality is fantastic and the bass KICKS!!!“ You heard the man.

REST
Dream Bangkok (10 Sukhumvit Soi 15, Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, +66-2-254-8500, www.dreambkk.com) is a newish boutique hotel with corridors awashed in surreal indigo blue lighting that makes you feel like you are on the set of a David Lynch flick like Twin Peaks. The lighting is soft and uber sensual, and there are even lights under the bed. Ooh la la! The Flava Lounge downstairs which has a candy striped theme and ornamental tigers, is popular for its fancy cocktails, and is a place where the young and trendy hang out. This hotel screams sexy, sexy, sexy, and is the kind of place that inspires urban adult dreams.
But if you prefer something a little more rustic, the Old Bangkok Inn (607 Pra Sumen Rd., Pra Nakhon, +66-2-629-1787, www.oldbangkokinn.com) is a charming family run bed and breakfast that was originally a palace bestowed upon the owner’s family seven generations ago by King Chulalongkorn. Restored and opened to the public in July 2005, the rooms are decorated in traditional Thai style with golden teak furnishing and hand-painted porcelain. Situated on Rajamnern Avenue, the heart of the city’s historical quarter, it is just a stone’s throw away from the National Museum, Grand Palace, Emerald Buddha, Khao San Road and the Chai Phraya River. Being a “Green Hotel,” it is non-smoking and operates in a way that will minimize harm to the environment and community.

HOW TO GET THERE
We recommend Thai Airways flights available from www.zuji.com.sg for $228 including taxes. This fare is valid for travel before Oct 31 2008.
For more information on Bangkok, log onto www.tourismthialand.org.

JAKARTA
Indonesia’s commercial center holds within its periphery the confounding marriage of Muslim conservatism and modern hedonism. But the co-existence of chaos and beauty that makes Jakarta a somewhat challenging city, also gives it an enchantingly heady edge.

BUY
The burgeoning Indonesian middle and upper-classes are very brand-conscious, which has lead to an increase in haute couture brands popping up in the malls here. Due to seasonal sales, branded goods here sometimes cost a lot less than they do elsewhere in the region. The sophisticated Plaza Senayan (No.8 Jalan Asia Afrika, Gelora Bung Karno, +62-21-572-5555) is a good place to go for high-end labels like Gucci and Christian Dior as well as Indonesian designer boutiques like Biyan and Ghea & Sebastian’s.
Art aficionados should visit contemporary art gallery Langgeng Icon Gallery (1 Jalan Kemang Raya, +62-21-718-0719) at hip Kemang district for some of the city’s coolest artworks. Currently showing—Bali-based, Italian artist Filippo Sciascia’s hypnotic oil on canvas paintings, based on a series of images inspired by the female figure, photographs and the Balinese landscape, which are forward and contemplative all the same.

SAVOR
Café Batavia (Taman Fatahillah Jakarta-Kota, 62-21-691-5531, www.cafebatavia.com) looks like a vignette from The Great Gatsby, and its dining area surrounded by French windows, looks like the kind of place that British officers sup at during the First World War. The two-story 19th century building sits on the historic Fatahillah Square and though it has fed prime ministers and presidents, prices are fairly reasonable. Brunch includes items like Jameson Irish whisky porridge, raspberries and rose water yogurt and nougat crunch, Indian scrambled eggs, grilled lamb sausage served on a baguette, and even sandwich of sevruga caviar and shrimps on lobster butter. The walls are covered in hundreds of old black-and-white photos of movie stars and long forgotten royalty, and the art deco Churchill bar upstairs offers award-winning cocktails like “Marry Me” and “Borneo Sunset.” If you’re looking for your personal Casablanca in Jakarta, this is it.
For yet more nostalgia, head to the refurbished shophouses of Merdeka Square where you’ll find Dapur Baba Elite (18-19 Jakarta Pusat, Jalan Veteran I, +62-21-7060-2256). Decorated with intricate artwork, mementos, rustic houseware from a bygone era and photos of prominent Baba families, this restaurant successfully captures the spirit of 20th century Java. The Peranakan cuisine served here is an exciting amalgamation of culinary traditions from China and Java, but be sure you can handle the spice before venturing forth.

GROOVE
In an adjoining section of Dapur Baba Elite is TAO Bar (18-19 Jakarta Pusat, Jalan Veteran I, +62-21-7060-2256). Tao, which means “The Way”, pays homage to the mystical East. Sip on cocktails like Midori Margarita and Chaipiroshka as you journey into the fourth dimension with statues of Hindu gods Ganeshi and Mahakala for company.
If the stone gods won’t get jiggy, and you would rather go crazy on the dance floor, then take your hot bod to Embassy (Unit 704 Jalan Jendral Gatot Subroto, 2nd Bldg Kompleks Taman Ria Senayan East, +62-21-5703-704, www.embassytheclub.com). Though this mega-club has been around for a while, it is still one of the best dance clubs in Jakarta and the region, comparable to our very own Zouk. Embassy has won countless awards since its inception, including Club of the Year, Best Club Performance, Best Local DJ, Best International DJ and Best Toilet. So we don’t see any reason why we shouldn’t keep coming back.

REST
Located on the upper floors of a hip shopping center, the 12 rooms of the Kemang Icon by Alila (1 Jalan Kemang Raya, +62-21-719-7989, www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon) are each uniquely designed so you can work and play in an environment that promotes equanimity. We liked the Imperia room, which has details that infuse it with the spirit of 18th century France. You can relax at the Thann Sanctuary spa here or hit the nearby specialty store, art and antique galleries or upscale restaurants around the corner. A 1,000 year-old statue of Ganesh, French mirrors form the sultan’s palace and a painting by Indonesian master Srihadi Soedarsono greets you in the lobby, and the personalized service is excellent. They can change the scent in your bathroom and even the color scheme of your bedroom if you give them advance notice. Now that’s luxurious.

HOW TO GET THERE
We recommend Garuda Indonesia with flights going at $253 including taxes from www.zuji.com. Prices are not guaranteed until payment is made in full.
For more information on Jakarta, log onto www.jakarta-tourism.go.id.

HONG KONG
Manic, claustrophobic and noisy, Hong Kong is an insomaniacs playground. But if you’re crowd shy, and would like a little room to breathe, the following places will allow you to slow down and get a little respite from the hustle and bustle.

BUY
The distinctly Chinese street markets in the Kowloon area are sights that you would be hard pressed to find in other parts of Southeast Asia. It’s apparent that despite being a very western-influenced modern society, superstitions and customs from mainland China still hold sway. In the Yau Ma Tei district, there is the Jade Market where sellers from around the world display their wares from 10am-4pm. Jade is meant to keep evil away and offer protection to travelers. From 4pm-11pm, fortune-tellers and Chinese opera performers come out at Temple Street Night Market. In the Mong Kok district you’ll find the Yen Po Street Bird Garden where bird lovers bring their feathered friends while they shop for ornate bamboo birdcages and grasshopper for feed from 7am-8pm. The Goldfish Market operating from 10am-9pm sells all varieties of goldfish, which is a feng shui symbol for good luck.

SAVOR
International food critics rave about the food at Hu Tong (28/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, +852-3428-8342), which is the unanimous choice for fine Cantonese dining in one of the world’s best cities for great food. Some of the signature dishes on their extensive menu include the braised beef ribs in lotus leaf, poached frog legs with sea cucumber in spicy chili broth, and for the environmentally conscious—vegetarian “sharks fin” with fresh pomelo. They also have a good selection of sakes and Chinese rice wines. The interior consists of silk curtains, red lanterns and antique wood screens. This is how Wong Fei Hong’s home would have looked like if he were loaded!
If you want to feel like you are entertaining guests at your own home, try Sevva (The Penthouse, 25/F Princess Bldg., 10 Chater Rd., Central, +852-2537-1388). Opened by Hong Kong socialite Bonnie Gokson, the elegant eatery is divided into five zones, so you can move from one room to the next for a different mood and ambience, just like you would if you were having a dinner party at your own penthouse. Gokson sees to it that every detail reflects impeccable taste. The water and crockery used are chemical free and plenty of organic vegetables and produce are used. Twentieth century artworks from London’s Fine Art Gallery are on display and music ranges from bossa nova to classical baroque.

GROOVE
Lan Kwai Fong and Wan Chai are now saturated with clubs and pubs, so those who want to get away from long queues and sweaty drunken bodies should head for One Peking, the latest fashion hot zone in Kowloon. Here you’ll find Aqua Spirit (28 & 30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, +852-3427-2288), introduced in 2006 by the Aqua group, the people behind Hu Tong, this place is touted as the next hip venue for sassy nightlife connoisseurs who want to party with class. You won’t find any riff raff in this mezzanine level chill-out bar that plays loungey Buddha Bar style tracks. They also have dessert nights from 10:30pm-1am on Thursdays to Saturdays, so you can get some glucose in you before a big night out.
Deep within the bowels of a nondescript office block in the happening SoHo district lies Evisu Baru (2/F, Lyndhurst Terrace, +852-9616-0107), a sparkling new addition to the city’s bar scene. Though it might seem a bit out of the way for a cutting-edge bar, this is not necessarily a bad thing as it serves to nurture the illusion of exclusivity, as one would probably only hear of it from those “in the know.” Apart from being off the beaten track, the real wow factor of this bar is its outdoor terrace, a godsend for disgruntled smokers. Weeknights are low-key affairs, but on weekends the bar fills up with the city’s hip, young and good-looking people. It is just a matter of time before this becomes one of Hong Kong’s most popular hangouts.

REST
Owned by 29 year-old Singaporean Yenn Wong, this award-winning five-room hotel—which is the first boutique hotel in Hong Kong—is more like a service apartment with kitchen facilities, dining area, broadband and complimentary access to California Fitness gym nearby. JIA (1-5 Irving St., Causeway Bay, +852-3196-9000, www.jiahongkong.com), means home in Mandarin. The interior is designed by Phillipe Starck and has clean lines and cheery colors that certainly give the hotel a homely and livable feel. Your stay here comes with complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea with freshly baked cakes and wine in the evenings. Located in the shopping and entertainment district of Causeway Bay, JIA is great if you just want to relax, get some work done, and not have to move around too much—we like.
The Luxe Manor (39 Kimberly Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, +852-3763-8888, www.theluxemanor.com), which opened in 2006 looks like something Dali would have created if he grew up in China. You’ll find oddities like mirrored wall paper, romantic flowery ceilings, circular beds and even a safari themed room. Even though some of the décor here is a little too garish, there is something pleasantly whimsical about this hotel which reflects the spirit of Hong Kong—that weird clash of east and west that succeeds in making kitsch cool. Though these two hotels have been around for a while, we like the fact that they do not fit into the mould of business-y chain hotels. The personalized touches, smaller size and great locations still make them great choices when visiting Hong Kong.

HOW TO GET THERE
We recommend flying with Jetstar at $479 from Singapore to Hong Kong return with taxes. Available at www.wego.com or www.jetstar.com.
For more information on Hong Kong, log onto www.discoverhongkong.com

Though the culture and main languages of each is different, there is one thing these three Southeast Asian cities have in common—they are constantly evolving and this frenetic pace of change is exactly what keeps us coming back for more.

GROOVE
In an adjoining section of Dapur Baba Elite is TAO Bar (18-19 Jakarta Pusat, Jalan Veteran I, +62-21-7060-2256). Tao, which means “The Way”, pays homage to the mystical East. Sip on cocktails like Midori Margarita and Chaipiroshka as you journey into the fourth dimension with statues of Hindu gods Ganeshi and Mahakala for company.
If the stone gods won’t get jiggy, and you would rather go crazy on the dance floor, then take your hot bod to Embassy (Unit 704 Jalan Jendral Gatot Subroto, 2nd Bldg Kompleks Taman Ria Senayan East, +62-21-5703-704, www.embassytheclub.com). Though this mega-club has been around for a while, it is still one of the best dance clubs in Jakarta and the region, comparable to our very own Zouk. Embassy has won countless awards since its inception, including Club of the Year, Best Club Performance, Best Local DJ, Best International DJ and Best Toilet. So we don’t see any reason why we shouldn’t keep coming back.