Used Rubbers for insertion??

last SG · 2002-09-26T13:52:57+00:00

Well, from wat i understand and learnt last time while hooking the ball, pulling up on the ball is an illusion that we think we see from these pro-bowlers re...

prataman SG

Why worry so much about numbers, Jordan?

The ball already comes equipped with the numbers for you, and the pin location and CG.

Your symmetrical core balls come with pin location and CG, your asymmetrical core balls come with pin location, CG and mass bias. Your 3 piece cores, well, it doesn't even matter.

As long as you know the RG, the Differential, and the coverstock nature (pearlised/solid, reactive/particle, aggressive/control) with the pin/CG/mb you can already formulate a reaction you desire on a particular lane. Or combat a particular lane condition.

Now. Your Tour Power is a super quick revving ball with a solid aggressive coverstock. Although the differential is relatively low, it still equates to quick revving and early rolling (oil please). Now we look at your drilling pattern and release (I think we've got a rough idea) and the lanes you are playing on.

Now, from there you can analyse what problem you are having. Physically wise, we can't really help. Heh. But ball wise, we will definitely help you see.

Let me help you start...
You're convinced you need a higher RG ball because.....?

p/s (1): sorry mage, we're really going off thread here!
p/s (2): argh! I double posted! Could a mod help me delete my previous post?

airgrinder SG

...because I currently own a low RG ball (on top of the blue dot). Figured a high RG ball would better suit the drier conditions and not suffer a loss of impact, to complement my equipment. But, that's when I have $$$$$ and more $$$$$. (why dun they have a money face smiley???)

There was once when I bowl at Classic, the ends were very dry and the fronts...I would say very light oil. You can just make out the ball track after the first throw. My blue dot can hook into the pocket when i stand at 10 aiming at 1st arrow. My 1st ball, well I stand at 40 something aiming at 4th arrow to get it into the pocket. In order to maintain a sharp entry angle, I push the ball as far as I could allowing the ball to snap into the pocket. Problem is, couldnt control the revs and the push effectively. A good length down will result in a weak turn towards 1-3, whereas a strong revs result in a nearer brkpt, a 1-2 hit. hmmm...if i'm just able to control the lift and length....*sigh* Sad

harmzuay SG

Airgrinder

I've seen you bowl in the last , and I think you need to speed up your shots anyway. Even if you are planning on expanding your arsenal, increase your ballspeed. Today's equipment dictates the way we have to bowl. Even the pros have to change their styles to play today's gear. Basically today's balls rewards smoothness at the line and higher speed and a "push" (outward) instead of a "lift" (upward).

Prata is correct - do not think too much about the numbers. They are there to help those who can read them. One can still be a great bowler while not being able to understand any of them.

In any case, here is how RG diff. works. Imagine two open doors you are going to slam shut. One door has an edge that is 30cm from the hinge, the other is long, measuring 1m from edge to hinge. The longer distance would mean that door gets slammed with more force, right? That is the RG diff.

The edge of the door is one end of the weightblock in the core (either top or bottom) and the hinge is the other end. The greater this difference, the harder the core will rotate. Do you follow?

So when the core rotates, the ball flares. Thus a ball with a big RG diff. will flare more than one with a small RG diff. Understand? Smile

Now, this is RG: Assume there are two cellphones in front of you. Both are the same size as a Nokia 8210, ok? Now imagine you have to spin them on the spot on their backs. I know some people do this, hopefully you are one of them. Mr. Green One of the phones has it's weight in the centre so it spins very easily and quickly, yah?? But the other has its weight distributed very oddly, with it heavier at the top than in the centre. This makes it spin very slowly, even though you spun them with the same force. This is RG determining how easily a ball is to turn, can you see it?

airgrinder SG

Idea thanx for the effort...but my one 8250..... Mr. Green

Ding SG

Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked

gosh

Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked

Deamon SG

My Reply:
Why bother to know too much? so that we have an excuse if we are not bowling well? A lot of knowledge is good Provided that u can apply within the first 5 shots of yr game. If not, u be trying to experiment so much that before u know it, yr last game is up. Which is why the last Murphy's law of bowling is so apt: that u only found yr line in yr last shot.

With respect to the rubber insert. I shall not give my opinion, but rather on its uses.Rubber insert is not ebtirely made up of rubber. There are 2 types of insert. One is made of sillicone(can't remember if its is this, pls dun laugh if i got it wrong) and the other vinyl. Vinyl is "stickier",so yr finger seems "to stay longer"and this in return impart more revs. However, imagine how much stress it does to yr tendons for that split second of holding. For silicone, it smoother , that's all.

There is a standard bridge if u use inserts, becos if the bridge is too close, the fingers holes will crack as there is a lot if vibration when drilling.

Rubber insert is useful as it helps generate "lift"in the fingers and this may in turn give a little more revs. However, if u are the very passoniate bolwer who will always change rubber insert after approx 30games and have the spare $$ to spend too, otherwise, normal finger drilling is enough.In today high tech ball, u do not need to impart as much lift as olden days ball just to get more hook

tIfosI SG

more relaxed feeling and no sizzling or pin and needles feeling after releasing the bola.

Errrrr Embarassed Laughing

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