Now to see their diet
Not long ago, while on assignment in Osaka, I had the most
exuberantly revolting meal of my life. I was in a Shinto shrine
that housed sumo wrestlers and my host was Konishiki (pronounced
Ko-NEESH-kee), the Hawaiian-born sumo legend affectionately known
as Meat Bomb. When I arrived in late morning, I was ushered up a
raised platform at the end of a dim training hall. From this lofty
redoubt, Konishiki and I watched a dozen fleshy wrestlers grunting
through a training session. Somber and loin-clothed, the rikishi
stood around a circle of hard-packed clay, smacking their thighs
and stamping their bare feet as if signaling to tenants downstairs.
"Sumo wrestlers don't eat until noon," Konishiki said. "They need
to work up an appetite."
We were taken to a small dining room. On a long, low, wooden table,
10 soup bowls, 10 glasses, and 10 sets of chopsticks ringed an
electric wok. The cook a rikishi on kitchen duty tossed sliced
tofu, carrots, cabbages, leeks, potatoes, lotus roots, daikon
radishes, shiitake mushrooms, and giant burdock into a boiling
chicken broth. He was preparing chankonabe, the caloric staple of
the sumo diet of sumo. "The Japanese consider chanko a nutritious
food that helps make your bones denser," Konishiki says. "It's
healthy, if you eat it in moderation." Of course, rikishi don't eat
in moderation. They form their MoonPie-shaped sumo bodies by
swilling prodigious portions, along with rice, beer, and an
occasional side dish of omelets, shrimp dumplings, and fried
chicken. Then they take a long nap.
Konishiki calls chanko a "sort of legal steroid." Of all the
performance enhancers used in sports, it's perhaps the oldest and
most venerated. Chanko dates to at least the late 19th century,
when short-order cooks from Niigata prefecture fixed meals for
wrestlers. The word "chan" (regional dialect for "father") was
conflated with "nabe," the name for one-pot meals often served at
the table. "It's the main course of a sumo meal," says Konishiki.
"All the sumo wrestlers have to eat it, whether they like it or
not."
Sumo is a simple sport: If you force your opponent to the ground or
into the rice straw that surrounds the 15-foot ring, you win. If
any part of your body other than the soles of your feet touches the
floor, you lose. Because bouts are generally over in a few seconds,
size matters. "Sumo wrestlers depend on their weight," ex-rikishi
Jesse Kuhaulua once told me. "Some have lost careers after losing
weight. It's a mental thing."
To bulk up for their bimonthly tournaments, sumo wrestlers gorge on
beef, chicken, or fish chanko. The wrestler Takamisugi became an
immortal for downing 65 bowls of the stew or 29 pounds of beef in a
single sitting. He stopped because his jaws got tired. Though every
wrestler will tell you they owe their Jovian girth to chanko, the
soup doesn't have any magical properties. The real culprit is their
bottomless appetite. In his youth, Konishiki would routinely lunch
on 10 bowls of chanko, eight enormous bowls of rice, 130 pieces of
sushi, and 25 portions of barbecued beef. And he'd still have
plenty of room for dessert.
The circumferentially enhanced Konishiki was the heftiest rikishi
ever, topping out at 630 pounds. When a sumo talent scout recruited
him off a Honolulu beach, he weighed a willowy 380. In Japan, the
teenager was encouraged to pack it in and pack it on. "If you wanna
be a rikishi, you've gotta eat chanko," says Konishiki. "You got no
choice you've gotta pay your dues." Every day his stable master
would shout: "Eat chanko! Eat! Eat! Eat! The more you weigh, the
harder it will be for opponents to throw you."
Since Konishiki retired from the ring in 1997, he has slimmed down
to about 580, mostly thanks to a diet designed by his second wife,
a 112-pound former medical worker. Still, he's not exactly laying
off the chanko. "That would be tough," he says. "I like the stuff."
Konishiki also serves the stuff at Unbalance, the theme restaurant
he owns near the Tokyo Dome. Chanko is the most popular dish on the
menu. "We offer three kinds," Konishiki reports. "The one I eat is
low-cal."
In Osaka, we definitely ate high-cal. Konishiki and I sat on
cushions with the stable master and seven high-ranking wrestlers,
while three rookies were relegated to tatami mats in a corner. By
sumo protocol, the stable master was served first, then Konishiki
and the veterans. "The top guys get the best meat," Konishiki said.
"The 'slaves' have to wait until we're finished, and then get
what's left at the bottom of the pot." That's supposed to encourage
them to get promoted fast.
An attendant brought me a heaping bowl of rice and filled my glass
with beer. I handed my bowl to the cook, who ladled in the choicest
morsels from the communal pot. I poked through the gray, gristly
sludge, picking out the least disagreeable-looking bits. I drew a
spoonful to my lips. I closed my eyes and swallowed. The bits
tasted like pencil erasers soaked in chicken fat, except that
pencil erasers are perhaps a little less chewy. One bowl was
plenty.
"Not bad," I said politely.
"Not bad!" Meat Bomb bellowed. "Mine's grrrrreat!" The wrestlers
smiled and nodded. After polishing off their bowls, they asked for
seconds. And thirds. Sometime after bowl No. 6, the wrestlers rose
in unison, bowed deeply, and cantilevered to their bedrooms. It was
time to take a nap.

http://www.slate.com/id/2110026/