Of all the mainland Southeast Asian nations, Cambodia is perhaps
the most neglected from a tourist's point of view. The country is
arguably known worldwide for two things: the magnificent Angkor Wat
complex and two of the legacies of the Khmer Rouge -- land mines
and security issues.
Together these facets have worked historically to both attract and
repel foreign tourists, resulting in a highly developed tourist
infrastructure surrounding Siem Reap, the closest town to the
Angkor Wat complex, while the rest of the country, from a tourism
point of view, has developed at a far slower pace -- if at
all.
The end result of this is that many visitors to Cambodia come
primarily to see Angkor Wat and leave without seeing anything else.
This is a missed opportunity as Cambodia offers a wealth of
destinations aside from Angkor Wat.
The capital, Phnom Penh, located roughly midway between Angkor Wat
and the Vietnamese border, is beautiful in a dilapidated kind of
way and has developed into a decidedly cosmopolitan city with
excellent eating and drinking available along with some great value
and very unique places to stay.
You packed an umbrella right?
Some historically important places to visit should be on your
itinerary in Phnom Penh, such as Tuol Sleng, the Killing Fields and
the National Museum, but it's not all genocide tourism here. Boat
cruises, cooking schools, an animal refuge, wet markets and the
ever-scenic riverside boardwalk are all easy
crowd-pleasers.
Another bustling city that attracts a fraction of the visitors it
deserves, Battambangin the west of the country is both an
attractive riverside city in its own right but also a convenient
hub for exploring the hinterland with its temples, Khmer ruins and
the bamboo train. Easily reached by bus or share taxi, you can also
approach it by boat from Siem Reap, crossing the Tonle Sap, in what
can be an incredibly beautiful and memorable trip.
Bamboo train outside Battambang.
While nearby Thailand may be better known for its island scene, the
half-dozen or so islands off the Cambodian south coast are where it
is at when it comes to the "new" islands of the region. Pristine
beaches and crystal clear waters really deliver the goods. The
coastal and riverside towns of Sihanoukville, Kampot and Kep
meanwhile provide a relaxing small town vibe that may enthral those
looking for a lower-key Cambodia.
Off the coast, Cambodia has a developing eco-ish sustainable
tourism scene, most famously centred around the Chipat area midway
between Phnom Penh and Battambang. Here you can experience village
life and grow to better appreciate what remains of Cambodia's
once-vast forests.
No Photoshop required.
Heading north from the capital towards the border with Laos, the
riverside towns ofKratie and Stung Treng each offer small town
charm and the opportunity (should you be in luck) to see the
critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins.
Further east again takes you to romantically named Mondulkiri and
Rattanakiri provinces. Once considered Cambodia's "Wild East" these
areas have been (and continue to be) ravaged environmentally, but
there are highlights that remain; Banlung in the north can be used
as a base for trekking in Virachey National Parkand visiting nearby
waterfalls, while Sen Monorom, in a similar fashion to Chipat, has
a developing sustainable tourism scene.
A waterfall all of your own.
Then of course there is Angkor Wat. Yes, it is something you must
see during your lifetime; but do bear in mind that there are
actually dozens upon dozens of monuments scattered not just around
Siem Reap but across much of the country. Siem Reap town, with its
ever-growing supply of hotels, fabulous eating and plentiful
drinking has developed into a destination in its own
right.
The crown jewel of Cambodian tourism.
So with so much to see, why do people see so
little?
Cambodia is a very poor country and the poverty and persistent
begging, especially by children, can be distressing to some. Crime,
especially snatch and grabs, are a stubborn problem; scams also
continue to be a problem. But we'd say we've always felt relatively
safe in Phnom Penh and its reputation among some as a sleazy
destination is not at all deserved -- it's no worse than Bangkok or
Saigon.
Kids working the crowd on the Neak Long ferry.
Cambodian food has its own distinct appeal, but for now it simply
isn't on the same page when compared to the cuisines of
neighbouring Vietnam and Thailand. That's not to say you shouldn't
try to get a handle on it though, and there are plenty of
opportunities to do so.
While Cambodia is generally slightly cheaper than both Vietnam and
Thailand but more expensive than Laos, it remains excellent value
for money.
How long does Cambodia deserve?
The standard tourist visa for Cambodia is 30 days. So we'd say that
is a good starting point.
In a month you could visit Angkor, Battambang, a couple of islands
via Sihanoukville and then dash along the coast to Kep and Kampot
before striking north to Phnom Penh, and continuing north to Laos
via Kratie and Stung Treng.
With two weeks you could easily see Siem Reap, an island, a bit of
coast and the capital before moving on.
One week, Angkor plus Phnom Penh or an island.
Just another Stung Treng sunset.
Cambodia has land border crossings with all three of its neighbours
(Laos, Thailand and Vietnam) and the main trunk routes are mostly
sealed, of a reasonable standard and trafficked by frequent public
transport. This makes it ideal for thoseplanning an overland loop
through Southeast Asia so if you're planning extensive travel,
Cambodia should absolutely be a part of it -- just don't make the
mistake of hightailing it straight to Siem Reap and Angkor
Wat.