Fine dining restaurants get recession-savvy with super saver
lunch sets. By Theresa Tarpey
Fast food joints are no longer the only places offering value
meals these days. High-end restaurants, having caught on to the
fact that we are mired in a recession, are now coming out with
their own version of the recession meal—the set menu. As the crème
de la crème of restaurants, these sets promise to be a lot more
enticing than your typical quantity over quality “chicken or beef”
plate. Only the best ingredients are used and the variety of
innovative dishes is maintained. The posh ambiance doesn’t hurt
either.
If there is one good thing that has come out of this dreary
global recession, it’s these set menus. You get the chi chi vibe,
great service and haute cuisine—without breaking the bank. Here is
I-S’ top picks for saver sets from some of the best, and
most talked about restaurants in town.
FiftyThree
53 Armenian St., 6334-5535.
The skinny: They may be a new kid on the block,
but FiftyThree, joint venture of renowned chef Michael Han and the
Les Amis group, is already setting trends and garnering die-hard
fans with their holistic approach to dining. Maintaining an
ambiance of intimacy and exclusivity is highly valued
here—something they achieve by limiting their tables to only seven.
With so few tables and menus á prix fixe, there’s plenty of room
for private get-togethers and gastronomic creativity.
The feel: Historic shophouse meets Japanese
utility is the order of the day here and is fitting with the unique
private dining concept. By minimizing the head count, guests are
guaranteed personalized culinary creations and outstanding
service.
The value meal: For $45, exclusive dining comes
(relatively) cheap. The set consists of what seems to be the
standard three courses—starter, entrée and dessert—with guests
selecting one of three dishes from each course.
The food: Ingredient pairings are unique and
verging on the bizarre (not a bad thing in FiftyThree’s case). To
start, the Wagyu and hibiscus carpaccio is light and inventive;
each exotic ingredient complementing the other. Next up, check out
the pan-seared flap steak, smoked marrow and potato puree-foam.
Though rather small in size, it is a delightful combination of
textures and flavors. Complete your molecular gastronomical journey
with the fig and sweet olive tapenade served with green Szechuan
peppercorn (Bizarre? Yes. Tasty? Oh yes!).
Gunther’s
#01-03, 36 Purvis St., 6338-8955.
The skinny: This collaboration between former Les
Amis chef Gunther Hubrechsen and Italian restaurant owner Roberto
Galetti shook up the dining scene in 2007. Since then, it has been
pleasing epicureans and big wigs alike with its innovative nouveau
French cuisine.
The feel: Modern artworks, avant garde lamps and
cushy sofa bench seats accenting a predominately black interior
create a surprisingly intimate vibe here, ideal for friendly
rendezvous, meals à deux and client lunches.
The value meal: Just $38 will get you an
appetizer, main, dessert and coffee or tea. Portions are sized just
right—think human portions. After a somewhat lengthy two-hour meal,
you won’t be stuffed to the gills, but you’ll find yourself oddly
satisfied. Chef Gunther also changes the sets every two weeks (see
their website www.gunthers.com.sg/menu.html
for the latest menu), so repeat menus are not an issue.
The food: Begin your dining experience with one of
their three appetizers on offer. Try the egg sunny-side-up nantua
with sautéed crayfish and a rich béchamel sauce. Thank goodness for
the freshly baked mini baguettes (also awesome just on their own),
which are ideal for dipping. The tuna smothered in garlic and
herbs, and accompanied by a Béarnaise sauce and pommes paille
(glorified potato chips) is pure pleasure for the senses. If you’re
feeling gutsy, ask for Gunther’s Creation. This guy is known for
changing up the menu at a moment’s notice—so you can expect to be
pleasantly surprised each time you visit. Polish off the meal with
the dessert of the day. The signature apple tart with rum raisin
ice cream is a bit OTT sweet; but inventive and totally
tasty.
Le Saint Julien
#02-01 Fullerton Water Boat House, 3 Fullerton Rd.,
6534-5947.
The skinny: In the six years since its opening in
2003, Le Saint Julien has become synonymous with fine French dining
and haute cuisine. Forget about progressive and funky cooking
styles—chef Julien Bompard takes a purist’s approach to French
cuisine.
The feel: Classic, understated elegance describes
not only the food but also the atmosphere—picture old-school fine
dining with pristine white linens, velvety red chairs, warm service
and a lovely bay view.
The value meal: The executive lunch set goes for
$52. Diners are spoiled for choice here, choosing from a list of
not one but five appetizers, five mains and four desserts (Note:
Some of the dishes come with an additional cost). This menu is
updated monthly and is just the kind of excuse you need to keep
coming back.
The food: Whet your appetite with a seafood and
potato starter garnished with caviar. Then continue your
degustation experience with scallops and a parsley and shallot
salad with honey sauce; and conclude your meal with the fresh and
palate-cleansing homemade sorbet. If you’re in a more savory than
sweet mood, splurge on the cheeses—exclusive French cheeses from
Saint Julien’s own La Fromagerie.
Tippling Club
8D Dempsey Rd., 6475-2217.
The skinny: With its chic counter seats, simple
décor and funky ink-blot menus, Tippling Club is definitely
something extraordinary. Through the blood, sweat and tears of chef
Ryan Clift and bartender Matthew Bax, the art of food paired with
drinks is taken to a whole new level. This is cutting edge dining
that you’ll definitely need to try at least once.
The feel: Like the food and décor, the ambiance
here is refined and edgy. Foodies, couples and friends come here to
wind down and experience Tippling Club’s fresh take on haute
cuisine. Although the vibe here is decidedly hip, it’s refreshingly
devoid of a stuffy fine dining feel. Think casual funkiness: So by
all means chow down and have fun here.
The value meal: Keeping to their concept of food +
drinks, the lunch set (available Thu-Sat) includes two-, three- or
six-courses; plus one or two glasses of wine. Priced at $29, $49
and $99 respectively, these sets make posh nosh and tipples for
lunch a realized concept. Another economical option is the tapas
menu, which features 30 drink + food pairings for you to choose
from.
The food: The lunch set changes monthly and as
dishes are rarely repeated, you’re guaranteed a unique experience
each time you visit. Current first course option, the poached quail
with green curry and peanut crumble, exemplifies the progressive
tone behind the cuisine. If you’ve opted for the three-course set,
the seared sea bass with broccoli polonaise will satisfy your
palate. To round off the meal, relish the lightness of the
port-infused pineapple with yogurt and star anise crumble. You’ll
probably be back to sample more innovations by Clift and Bax.