he got check the wind speed and direction bo?? knn.. i just
shoot auto.. can already...
That shot definitely there is not a need. However when taking macro
closeups of small objects or in the wild a good example
is photography of small insect resting on some plants or
leaves in the wind. Mild breezes blowing on the
still subject can hinder proper composition and
framing. Once the camera is steady and flash
ready you will see the insect in the frame but it will be
moving about, much like panning on its own. You will hold
still and wait until the breeze die down. Once it does
quickly do a manual focus fast and at the same time adjust my
body posture forward or backwards, side to side before tapping
the shutter when you got the insect in focus and in frame
through the viewfinder. Usually at 1/200 flash limit with my
entry level nikon cam with a powerful diffused, reflected flash is
all you need. That's the time i see wind speed and strength comes
in for a photographer to make judgement and decisions when taking a
photo.
There is nothing wrong with auto actually. In the internt much
has been discussed over and over again to death and you get the
same old replies, more so many noob advices from those GWCs who
sped too much time learning crap from crap themselves, thinking
they are so smart and a repica of picaso.
The auto mode takes priority on the aperture. Keeping the
shutter speed in check. Once it senses the lighting condition and
reaches below 1/60 the onboard pop-up flash with lift for
flash firing. ISo maintain at the lowest best as also according to
the condition of light available. However if you force the
flash to be off then ISO will be increased with quality taking a
back sit. When the lighting condition is so poor that the camera's
limited has been reached there is nothing much your camera can do
anyway.
AV, TV, M - these 3 modes are importantonly on the type of
effects you want to achieve. Tv in action photography and
lanscapes, Av for general, portraits and landscapes. Manual
for all and usually flash photography. WHile Ev can be adjusted in
TV and Av, there is a relation to them all. You increase Ev in Av
mode, the shutter will still slows, you increase Ev in Tv mode,
aperture will still be opened bigger. Do a test yourself in an
enclosed environment (including windows and curtains) and under
your indoor lighting only. Put the cam on the table or tripod and
point it a the same direction through all tests. Very similar for
metering. SPot, matrix centre weight average Metering they all
results the auto in-cam adjustments in shutter speed. There is no
magic or secret to these settings, its all about mechanics and
electronics, its all about sensitivity and light.
What is important is the cam body and lens grade. Its too long
for me to write all of them here. The body has the better
electronics and components installed. Usually the higher grade
of cameras will be more sensitive to light, have better
noise control, a tougher body, higher shutter count, and
better color reproduction etc. Same goes for lenses.
However if the light is at all odds then even the best cameras
will never be able to produce good pictures alone. And no i am not
talking about a single shot. Professional knows that they what a
high shot-to-shot acceptance reatio. As such external flashes and
lightings, many types of equipment are made and push to the
photographer who knows when to use them are available. Even if you
are the best photographer in the world claiming that there is no
need for them, it will still not result in the other photographers
not buying them. Because they all know the rule and they know
they will need these additional equipment.
So many crap i think i should go out and shoot more instead.
