On top of the world in Tibet

June 10, 2016 GRAHAM STEPHENSON Gold Coast Bulletin

WITH a population of less than 3 million, scenically spectacular, culturally powerful Tibet is a one-of-a-kind part of the world.

Its capital Lhasa sits in mountainous terrain at 3700m above sea level with only a quarter of a million people and is watched over by the magnificent Potala Palace.

Buddhism permeates every aspect of Tibetan life for this is the spiritual home of the religion.

In the heart of Lhasa lies the Tibetan Quarter and the 7th century labyrinthine Jokhang Temple surrounded by prostrating pilgrims.

In front of the temple is atmospheric Barkor Square, filled with nomadic pilgrims, colourful columns of prayer flags, market stalls, and the powerful smell of incense.

With 1350 years of history, this Tibetan Quarter has witnessed the Chinese annexation in 1951, the effects of the cultural revolution, and the imposition of martial law in times past.

Pilgrims endlessly circumambulate around the Jokhang in a clockwise direction, spinning their handheld prayer wheels. The yellow and red robes of the dominant Yellow Hat sect of Buddhism are omnipresent.

Close to the Jokhang is perhaps Tibet’s most famous icon, the 1350 year old Potala Palace. Built originally in 631 by King Songsten Gampo for his Tang Dynasty Chinese Princess, Wencheng, the palace was destroyed by fire and civil war and rebuilt by the 5th Dalai Lama in 1645.

It became the largest and highest castle-palace in the world, with more than 1000 rooms over 13 storeys.

Comprised of two parts, the White and a Red Palaces, the Potala was the residence of the Dalai Lamas from the 5th to the current 13th, who fled to India in 1951.

The Red Palace was its spiritual heart, and the surrounding White Palace the administrative centre.

Tibet’s most precious treasures, rooms and tombs of past Dalai Lamas, highly spiritual frescoes and sculptures remain on display here.

After a steep climb to the entrance doorway, it takes an hour (strictly timed) to pass through the Palace from one side to the other. From both outside and inside, this palace is a spectacle.

Just outside Lhasa is one of the six Geluk monasteries. Serums Monastery once accommodated around 5000 monks — today that’s been reduced to just 600.

A fascinating highlight of any visit here is observing the daily debating ritual where senior monks aggressively question the novices on their spiritual knowledge. There’s much posturing, stamping, and clapping of hands in this very lively afternoon activity.

The countryside of Tibet is legendary: When we visit thousands of autumnal poplar trees line the roads, farms and river banks, under towering snow-capped peaks. Small rural communities cultivate hardy crops of barley with a limited mixture of traditional and modern farm equipment.

The Friendship Highway between Lhasa and Tibet’s second city Shigatse passes through the spectacular snow-covered Kharola Pass at 5000m high.

A modern switchback road rises to the sacred turquoise Namdrok-tso Lake, then the highway skirts the lake past glaciers and high-altitude sheep grazing pastures to Gyantse.

Around Gyantse, Britain’s Colonal Francis Younghusband fought the Tibetans in Britain’s highest war. A historic fort and a spectacular chorten (also known as a stupa; a monument to a distinguished Buddhist, especially a lama) in the grounds of the historic Pelkor Chode Monastery are icons of this traditional farming town.

Shigatse is home to Tashilunpo Monastery, base of the Panchen Lama, and a 26m golden statue of the Future Buddha.

Here the tombs of past Panchen Lamas are richly decorated with precious stones and gold. Tibetan carpets are also well-known in this part of Tibet.

From here the fertile Brahmaputra Valley leads to Tsedang, accessed by either road or fast train.

From this valley, Tibetan culture and its early kings came. The isolated but active Samye Monastery was the first in Tibet, the birth of Tibetan Buddhism. Today it's a revered pilgrimage site. In the nearby Chongye Valley lies Tibet’s first farm, and the spectacular first fortress and palace of its early kings — the birth place of Tibetan history and culture.

The entry and exit for Tibet can be via the world’s highest railway, a 24 hour journey from Xining in Qinghai Province to Lhasa, at an average height of 4000m above sea level.

It is quote an experience, gliding across a spectacular high-altitude plateau between lakes and majestic snow-capped mountains.

Tibet is changing, but it is one of life’s greatest cultural travel opportunities.

There is so much to see and experience ...do it while you can.